Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Heading Back to the USA

Hello friends. Our last chapter ended on August 31st in Prince George, BC, Canada and marked the final day of our Alaskan Caravan with Fantasy RV Tours. That morning we were left to fend for ourselves for the first time in 48 days.

Tuesday, September 1st we awoke at the Southpark RV Park in Prince George. I got out first thing in the morning and cleaned the windshield and front of the coach. I think I had every bug in British Columbia smashed on the front of the coach. After lunch we headed out do some shopping. Since we had spent a few days in Prince George back in July, on the way up to Dawson Creek to meet the caravan, we knew where the Wally World and Canadian Superstore were located. That morning three of our caravan group, Doug and Linda, Dee and Gary and Joe and Tina, pulled out and headed off to their next destinations. We were staying one more night along with Peggy and Vernon and Charlie and Shelly. This would be our last day with any of new friends, so we planned a final steak cookout for that night and we needed a few supplies. After our shopping trip we went back to the coach until dinner when the six of us got together and had a very nice meal. It was fun, but a little sad too because we knew this was the last time we would spend with any of our caravan group until our paths cross again down the road. I forgot to mention earlier also that for the first time since we left Dawson Creek, BC on July 16th we had reception on our satellite! I had to get on the internet to get the service “refreshed” since we had been off for so many weeks. At first we could only get messages that our service had “expired”, but I was able to get it turned back on with the click of a mouse. Oh, technology - how great are you? We now have 200 channels to watch again. YEA!

Wednesday morning we woke up and headed out about 10:00 a.m. for McBride, BC, about 140 miles East of Prince George. Our plans were to work our way East to Edmonton, Alberta, then South to Calgary, Alberta and ultimately into Montana where the I-15 starts. We wanted to see Edmonton (where the largest mall in the world is located - yea!) and Calgary since we had never been in Alberta. We wanted to cross the border into Montana for two reasons, the I-15 is the best way back to Pahrump, Nevada and we wanted to shop for a new car. If we buy the car in Montana, where our vehicles are registered, we won’t have any sales tax or registration hassles. Charley and Shelly headed South out of Prince George, headed for the border in Oregon, and Peggy and Vernon wanted to take the Canadian Rockies scenic route down towards Montana.

The drive from Prince George to McBride was very nice. Although the road was mostly two lane, it was wide and smooth for the most part, and had a lot of passing lanes so we didn’t have to worry about holding up traffic. It was nice to be able to comfortably cruise at 55 mph again. We stopped at a very nice RV park, Beaverview, which was right on the river. The laundry was only a few yards from our spot so we spent the afternoon catching up on our laundry.

The next morning, September 3rd we hit the road around 10:00 a.m. heading another 140 miles or so East. Today’s travels would take us through the Canadian Rockies and into the province of Alberta. Again the road was very nice and even the two summits we crossed were mild by US Rockies standards. The highest was only about 3,600 feet. There were no long steep climbs or descents like there are on some of the American freeways that go over the Rockies. About seventy miles into the trip we came to the entrance to Jasper National Park. This park straddles the Rockies and Highway 16 goes right through the middle of the park, East to West. There is a gate that you have to stop at, but if you tell them you are just driving through there is no charge. This is our first “visit” to a Canadian National Park. Just before exiting the park on the East end you pass the mountain village of Jasper. This is where the cutoff is for the road that goes down to Banff and Calgary along the Rocky Mountains. This is the path Peggy and Vernon took. We wanted to visit Edmonton, Alberta so we continued on straight.

We arrived in Hinton, Alberta in the early afternoon and settled into the KOA park there. We had found some geocaches in the area so we got our equipment and headed into town. We also wanted to go to the Walmart there to buy a new printer. Our Kodak ESP5 printer that we had bought less than a year ago had quit printing. The print head had gone bad. Although Kodak finally responded to my email and said they were sending a new print head, it would be weeks before we saw it and I was pretty fed up with the Kodak printer. The advertisements say buy it because the ink is so much cheaper. Well, it is cheaper, but it only lasts about a third as long as the other brands so there is no real savings. Plus, when the print head goes bad, like ours did, you can’t buy one - Kodak has to mail it to you. You see, all the other printer brands - HP, Cannon, Lexmark, etc., put the print head on the ink cartridge. When you put in a new cartridge you have a new head. That is the reason they cost more. Kodak separated the print head from the ink cartridge - their cartridge only holds ink and snaps into the print head. My advice - DO NOT BUY KODAK INKJET PRINTERS! They do not live up to the hype and are not worth the money.

We drove around Hinton for a while and did some caches, finding a total of five. Then we noticed that the sky was getting pretty dark to the West. I turned on the local radio and heard the severe thunderstorm warning. Sure enough, within 10 minutes the wind was blowing 45 mph and the rain was coming down so hard you could hardly see. We went to the Walmart and got out of the storm. We were able to find a Canon printer there for less than $50 so we bought it. It was still raining and blowing when we left Walmart but we made it back to the park safely. The first thing we noticed when we pulled into the park was two fifth wheel trailers with the patio awnings blown up and over the rig, completely torn up. They had evidently left the awnings out when they left the park and the wind came up very hard. We had noticed that there was a big red warning on the paperwork from the park that warned not to leave awnings out because of possible sudden high winds. Some people don’t listen to wise warnings. It rained and blew pretty much up until about 11:00 when we went to bed.

Friday, September 4th we left Hinton under partly cloudy skies with a little wind. The storms of the previous evening were over. We got back on the highway and shortly after leaving the park the road became a four lane divided highway, very much like a freeway. We were now leaving the Rocky Mountain area and starting to go across the high prairie country of Canada. Mostly rolling hills and pretty straight roads. We also started getting into fields of alfalfa and what appeared to be large cattle ranches. We also spotted the occasional oil derrick. The primary industries in Alberta are gas, oil and cows. Because of the good road and the fact we were only going 150 miles we got into the park in Edmonton by about 1:00. The park, Glowing Embers RV Park, was very large, nearly 300 spaces, but it appeared that a lot of them were seasonal rentals and a lot of the others were very small spaces for tent trailers and small camp trailers. The “transient” area was in the back and were fairly large pull-through spots. There were also no trees, so we were able to get our satellite reception well. We were going to be in Edmonton for two nights.

After getting settled in we got into the car to explore, our first stop being the West Edmonton Mall. This is advertised as the largest mall in the world. The mall was only about 5 miles from the park and it was HUGE! All of the parking is in parking garages which surround the entire complex. We parked and went inside and found one big mall. There are over 800 stores, an ice rink, and an indoor water sports complex with a wave pool and a half dozen water slides. The picture here is just the roof of the water park. There is also a huge indoor amusement park with several roller coasters and other rides. Inside the actual mall area, where the stores are, there is a large pirate ship which is used for shows. (It looks a lot like the one in Las Vegas at the Treasure Island Casino). There is also an show pool for a sea lion show and a large walk through aquarium. There is also a huge movie theater complex attached to the mall and a large hotel. We walked around the mall complex for about three hours and logged over six miles on Jackie’s pedometer. And we hardly went into any shops, we were just walking and looking! A very amazing space. We had missed the Mall of America in Minnesota when we were there last summer, but this made up for it. After the mall we headed back home and collapsed. A very busy and active day.

On Saturday, the 5th of September, we slept in and relaxed in the morning. Around 11:00 or so we headed out to do some exploring of the rest of Edmonton as well as some geocaching. We found the downtown area which was very built up. In some respects it was similar to Vancouver. There were a lot of high rise condos right in or near downtown. However, the city was no where near as pretty as Vancouver. We did stumble across a farmer’s market right in the middle of downtown so we stopped and spent about an hour walking around there. After that we had lunch at a Red Robin and then did some geocaches. At first it was very frustrating because many of the caches in the central city area that we headed for had no parking anywhere near the cache. In fact, some actually recommended using public transportation or a bike to get to the cache. After we got out of the central city into the outer ring we started being able to actually find caches. We found a total of eight before we got tired and headed home, after first stopping at a Canadian Superstore so Jackie could get some canned escargot. She had bought some when were in Prince George and loved them. She says you can’t get them in stores in the States. I don’t eat snails, so I couldn’t say.

All in all, we were not overly impressed with Edmonton. The streets were laid out in a very crazy scheme with all kinds of curves and turnoffs and name changes. It was very difficult to get around without getting completely lost. There were also a lot of the “can’t get there from here” kind of episodes because of traffic circles and barriers. The city did not have the charm of Vancouver, only the density of population. This will probably be our first and only visit to Edmonton, the capital of Alberta, Canada.

Sunday, September 6th we got out about 9:30 a.m. to start our 200 mile trip South from Edmonton, Alberta to Calgary, Alberta. We were on Provincial Highway 2 and it was the first true Canadian freeway we have been on since leaving Vancouver back in June. It was mostly four lane divided, but sometimes six lanes, and all limited access. Unlike our trip across the Rockies, this route had quite a bit of traffic. Some might be due to the fact that it is a holiday weekend, but this is also the main road between Alberta’s two largest cities. Nonetheless, it was a smooth and uneventful trip. We got into the Calgary West RV Park about 1:00 p.m. and settled in. We had made reservations because of the holiday and it appeared to have been the right choice - the park was pretty much full. We were going to be here for three nights, so we stayed in for the rest of day, taking care of chores. Jackie also made up her first batch of halibut chowder, using the recipe from one of our caravan members, Betty. It sure looked good, and the little taste I had was wonderful. Jackie said she was going to let it set for a day before we ate it.

Monday, September 7th - Labor Day. We headed to downtown Calgary to do some sightseeing. The Canadian’s celebrate the same first Monday of September holiday that we do in US, so the streets were pretty quiet. Downtown Calgary looked much more modern than Edmonton - we had read that Calgary has become the business center for Western Canada and that a lot of Canadian companies have their headquarters in Calgary. Downtown was filled with new looking glass skyscrapers. We also noted that many of the buildings in downtown are connected by elevated skyways. We read that this allows workers to spend all day downtown, going from building to building without having to go out into the winter cold. We also found (by accident) a hill with an overlook of the Calgary Stampede grounds. The Calgary Stampede is held every summer and is supposed to be the largest organized rodeo in North America. This year the Stampede (a week long event) was held the week before our caravan met in Dawson Creek. Several of the members of our caravan, including our leaders, had also gone to the Stampede with Fantasy Tours before heading up to Dawson Creek.

While we were downtown we drove down one of the main streets and all of a sudden it looked like it had just snowed! There was snow all over the sidewalks and curbs, and little drifts against the windows. Turns out they were filming a movie and the
snow was fake. Sure looked real. We drove by the scene three times trying to find a sign or something with the name of the movie, but we never did figure it out. After touring the downtown we went to an area just outside of downtown called Kensington, named after the primary street. This was a little area full of condos, shops, restaurants and clubs. A very cool looking area. We parked and had lunch at Julio’s Barrio, a Mexican restaurant. The food was OK, not spectacular and the service was pretty bad. This is apparently a chain because we had seen a couple in Edmonton too. Wouldn’t recommend it to people from the Southwest who know real Mexican food.

After lunch we started to do some caching. Our first four or five went unfound because once we got in the area of the cache we couldn’t find any parking. We then started looking for caches a little further out from the central city and had better luck. We ended up with seven finds for the afternoon. The final cache of the day took us to the Calgary Olympic Park, which was the site for the 1988 Winter Olympics. The park is less than a mile from our RV park. The park is on a hillside just up from Highway 1 and has several ski jumps, the ski runs for the slalom, downhill and mogul competitions, and the bobsled and luge runs. We were able to drive to the top of the hill and see the runs close up and take some great pictures. This was our first visit to an Olympic venue and we were pretty excited. After caching we headed back to the coach for the rest of the night. We had Jackie’s halibut chowder for dinner and it was WONDERFUL! I’m glad because we have a lot of it to eat.

Tuesday morning, September 8th. The holiday is over and after a great lunch of clam chowder we headed into town for some more caching and touring. We found the first cache we looked for and then we ran into major problems finding any others. We were looking in the residential part of town and everything is built on hills with winding and circular streets. We finally gave up and headed to the Calgary Elks Lodge. As I have noted in an earlier post, very few of the Canadian Elks Lodges have lounges or bars. However, the web site for the Canadian Elks said that not only did the Calgary Lodge have a bar, they had a whole country club, golf course, restaurant, the works. We went to the lodge and found a large beautiful building on a golf course. We went inside and found not one but two bars, one in the dining room and one less formal one downstairs by the pro shop. We had a cocktail, but other than the waitress there was no one else in the bar. The waitress completely ignored us after we got our drink. I did go upstairs to the business office and talked to a very nice lady there about getting an Elks pin if they had one. She gave me a nice pin from the Lodge and didn’t even charge for it. We haven’t added an Elks pin to the banner in many weeks. Finally!

After our drink at the Elks we decided to try the Canadian Legion Post. The address took us right into the middle of downtown Calgary. We saw the building, a very large ornate block building. However, since it was a business day traffic, both vehicle and pedestrian, was horrible and we could not find a place to park anywhere near the building. We finally gave up after circling the building several times. There is a Canadian Legion post in the next town we are going to, we will get our last pin there. We then headed back out to where the RV park was, stopping on the way to pick up some pizza for dinner. We then spent the rest of the night in, getting ready for our travels the following day.

Wednesday, September 9th was another travel day. We left Calgary about 10:00 a.m. and headed Southeast to Fort MacLeod, Alberta. This would be our last night in Canada! We were only here for one night. We pulled into the RV park about 12:00 in the afternoon because we only had about 125 miles to travel. We stayed at the Daisy May RV park which is right near town. After getting settled in we drove out to the Head Smashed-In Buffalo Jump historic site, about 10 miles from the park. It was a place where there is a 500 foot cliff which the native peoples had used to kill buffalo. They would stampede them up the hillside and in their terror they would run off the cliff to their death below. We assumed the name Head Smashed In referred to the buffalo, however, we learned that it came from an ancient legend about a young boy who wanted to get a closer look at the process and got his head smashed in by a falling buffalo. We also got credit for a geocache by driving out there. This was a "virtual" cache which means that there is no physical cache to look for and no log to sign. We only had to send in a photo of us at the site to get credit for the cache.

After the buffalo jump we drove into town for some exploring. We also found a regular geocache that was hidden in town. We are getting pretty close to the 1,000 finds mark. We parked downtown and walked around. Ft. MacLeod is a very historic town. It was the site of the first Northwest Mounted Police (Now the Royal Canadian Mounted Police) post. There is an old historic fort and a very nice downtown. We did some shopping and then visited the Royal Canadian Legion post. There were only the bartender and one other woman in the place, but they were nice. They didn’t have a pin for us, but I was able to trade in all my accumulated Canadian coins, except for the pennies which she didn’t want. I had exactly $10 worth of coins which left us with exactly $40 in Canadian money, all in paper money. After the legion visit we headed back to the park and relaxed the rest of the night.

Thursday, September 10. This was the big day - this was the day we went back into the lower 48 and left Canada for good, at least for now. We were only going about 130 miles so we left about 10:00. We first stopped for fuel and I spent the last $40 in Canadian money. We got to the border just around lunch time. This is a major crossing, at Sweetgrass, Montana, because it’s where Interstate 15 ends. However, there was little traffic when we got there. There was one car in front of us at the Customs checkpoint and they got sent into secondary. Eek - I felt a search coming on. The border agent asked me to turn off the coach and asked how long we had been in Canada, where were we coming from, and then did I have any guns. When I answered “no”, he walked around to the front of the coach and looked down at the license plate and I knew he was looking at the Marine Corps license plate frame I have on the front of the coach. When he came back he asked again, “you don’t have ANY guns?”. I then said, “well, I OWN several, but I don’t have any with me - I know the Canadian’s don’t like guns.” He then said, “oh, OK - I saw the Marine Corps license.” I then told him I was a retired cop also and didn’t want to mess with Canada law enforcement so I left my guns at home. He just smiled, gave us back our passports and told us we were cleared to go. I don’t know if he was a Marine, or just wanted an honest answer about guns. Maybe it was because we were going into Montana and have Montana plates on both vehicles. I really didn’t care. He didn’t ask about booze, or fruit or anything else and passed us through. That was enough to make me happy. We drove through the customs gate and we were HOME again! YEA!

We headed down I-15 to Shelby, Montana, a small town about 30 miles South of the border. We drove into the Lewis and Clark RV park and found we were the only one’s there besides the hosts. We got settled in for our one night stay and didn’t even unhook the car. We walked over to the laundry and did our wash and that was pretty much it. As the afternoon and evening wore on a number of other RV’s came in for the night. This was apparently a good transient stop.

We woke up the next morning, Friday the 11th, and headed out for the 130 mile drive to Great Falls, Montana. We pulled into Dick’s RV Resort about 1:00 p.m and got settled in. We initially signed up for a week - the longest we have been anywhere in almost three months! Dick’s is a large park with nice pull-through full service 50 amp hookups. We got settled in and immediately headed to Sam’s Club to try and get some vodka. We had run out in Canada a couple of days earlier but didn’t want to buy it there because of the cost. The last 1.75 Lt. bottle of Absolute we bought was $65! Unfortunately, we got to Sam’s and found that Montana has State liquor stores for the hard stuff. Only beer and wine are sold in regular stores. We found a State liquor store and bought two bottles for $44 each. Still expensive, but cheaper than Canada. We then went to WalMart for some other groceries and sundries. After our shopping spree we went back to the coach for the night.

Saturday the 12th we headed out into Great Falls to search for our next vehicle. Our Jeep is a 1999 and we just turned 150,000 miles while in Canada. It stills runs well and is pretty clean looking, but there are little things starting to break and we realize it is just a matter of time before some major repair is needed. We decided that we would arrange our summer trip so we had a couple of weeks to shop in Montana for a newer car. There are several reasons for that, the foremost being that our vehicles are registered in Montana to our LLC there. Montana has no sales tax, so if we buy a car here we save several thousand dollars. I had done some online searching for vehicles in the weeks before we arrived in Great Falls and knew that there was a large Jeep dealer, Lithia Motors, that had stores all over Montana. Their online used car inventory showed that they had several late model Jeep Grand Cherokees on their lot in Great Falls. We really like our Jeep and would like to stay with that brand. They are very easy to tow and have a reputation for being well built and sturdy.

After a quick lunch we headed to Lithia and were disappointed to find that none of Jeeps they had on their lot had the proper equipment to allow them to be flat towed. For those not in the RVing world flat tow means to tow a vehicle with all four wheels on the ground, no trailer or tow dolly. Only certain vehicles with very specific equipment can be towed that way without damaging the transmission or other equipment on the vehicle. Chrysler corporation, which makes Jeeps, has two different types of transfer case for their four wheel drive vehicles. One does not have a neutral position that allows all four wheels to turn freely with the transmission in park. The other does have a “true” neutral lever or switch, depending on model, that allows the vehicle to be flat towed. Many of the Dodge SUV models have the same running gear as the Jeeps, so we even considered one of them. However, none of the vehicles on Lithia’s lot had the type of transfer case we needed. Most of their stock were ex rental vehicles and they normally don’t come with the true four wheel drive option. They had a couple of very nice silver 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokees which would have matched our coach nicely. Unfortunately, none of them could be towed! Bummer.

While talking to the sales manager at Lithia we also realized that it could be harder than we realized to find a late model used car. Because both Chrysler and GM went through bankruptcy this year, neither has even started to build 2010 models, much less deliver them to their dealer network. Normally the new models would have been in the showrooms by the end of July or August, this year they haven’t even been built yet. This means that the dealers are running out of cars. They don’t have many new 2009s left and if they don’t sell new cars they can’t get late model trades on the lot to sell. The government’s “Cash for Clunkers” program had also helped deplete the stocks of cars. We learned this first hand as we toured all of the other new car dealerships in Great Falls. Some of the GM brand dealers had only a couple dozen cars in their entire inventory! Only the Ford dealer had 2010 models (they didn’t go bankrupt) and they didn’t have anything in the used inventory we wanted.

We were really getting bummed when we wandered into the Pierce Motors lot. They are primarily a Volkswagen dealership, but they also have franchises for Hyundai, Nissan and Lincoln/Mercury on the property. When we drove into the lot we saw a white Jeep Grand Cherokee sitting next to the building in a slot with a sign that said “Sold Vehicles” on it. I still wanted to see if it had the right transfer case so I walked over and looked into the vehicle. If you know where to look you can see the neutral switch on the console. I just wanted to see if there were ANY towable vehicles in town. As I was looking at the vehicle a salesman asked if he could help and I told him we were looking for a late model Jeep Grand Cherokee with the Quadratrac II transfer case. He told me that the one I was looking at was a 2008 and had that equipment. He also said the car had not been sold, it just happened to be parked in that slot for a few minutes. Eureka! We got to looking at the car more closely and found that it was a very nice car. It was the Limited model of Grand Cherokee, which is the more luxury version, and it was very well equipped. Leather, power everything, sun roof, and it had the new diesel V6 engine which is made by Mercedes Benz. It was a little more money than we thought we wanted to spend, so we told the guy we would think about it.

After another couple hours of searching we had looked on every decent car lot in town and had not found anything. We had even gone back to the coach and searched other cities in Montana within a 200 mile drive and still had not found anything else. The more we talked about the car at Pierce, the more we liked it. By mid afternoon we were back at Pierce talking deal. We took the car out for a drive and loved it. The only downside at all was that it was a bit pricier than we had initially planned, and it was white. We had hoped for something to match the coach. Nonetheless, we decided that this was what we wanted and we made the deal. We then spent the next three hours working with the salesman and the finance manager trying to get financing. The problem was not our credit, it was our weird (to the banks anyway) lifestyle. The finance guy said that every time he sent out a query he would get a response from the loan officer wondering why we had no house, no rent, a mailing address that is listed as a storefront in Nevada, California phone numbers, and wanted to register the vehicle in Montana under the name of a corporation that doesn’t have any income and doesn’t show up on our credit report. It seemed that none of the banks he dealt with could understand, and frankly didn’t want to understand, the oddities of our lifestyle which are pretty common among full time RVers, but not so much in the general population. We had figured that in Montan people would be more familiar with RVers and LLCs, but we were wrong. We had red flags waving all over the place and none of his banks wanted to touch us. We finally left about 6:00 p.m. very disappointed and with no new car. The dealership said they would continue to search for financing on Monday (they are closed Sundays) and suggested that we look for financing on our own also. We went back to the RV park a little sadder than we were in the morning.

We got up Sunday and decided to just forget about cars for a while and spend the afternoon exploring Great Falls and doing some geocaching. None of the car dealers were open anyway, nor were any of the banks or credit unions. There wasn’t much we could do on the car search until Monday. We found Great Falls to be a great caching city. We were able to find 17 caches in about four hours of searching. We were now within three finds of reaching the 1,000 finds milestone. We had a really great day and for dinner we BBQ’d some of our Alaskan halibut on the grill. It tasted great!

Monday morning we got up and started doing some internet searching for financing, as well as looking for other vehicles. We even contacted our LLC’s attorney to see if he knew of any financial resources that would work with an LLC. Finally, about 11:00 a.m. we got a call from the finance guy at Pierce who told us he found a bank that would work with us! Turns out his contact at Chase bank actually knew about LLCs and RVing and understood why our situation looked so odd on the surface. We went back to the dealership about 1:30 in the afternoon and an hour later we were driving back to the RV park in our new (to us) Jeep! YEA! It is a really nice car, the most luxurious I have ever owned. They also let us take the old Jeep back with us so we could take all the stuff out of it and remove all our towing stuff. We spent a couple hours cleaning everything out and finally took the old Jeep back to the dealership about 5:30 p.m. and saying a fond but sad farewell to our faithful steed.

We also made an appointment at a local shop to have the tow bar and necessary wiring installed on the new Jeep. He has to order the parts for the tow bar and told us he couldn’t install it until next Monday. We were originally scheduled to leave Great Falls on Friday, the 18th, but now we will have to extend our stay for at least another four days. We may just extend a week because the weekly rate where we are staying is quite a bit less than the daily rate. We had planned to be in Montana for two weeks anyway, and now we don’t have to worry about going to other towns to look for a car.

Tuesday morning, September 15th, we woke up with a new car parked behind the coach! I spent some time in the morning taking care of administrative stuff like notifying our insurance company and our LLC attorney about the purchase. In the afternoon we had chance to go out and do some grocery shopping. For the first time since we have been in Great Falls we had a chance to chill and relax around the coach. I also had time to take care of an odd problem. Right after we parked the coach the previous Friday I had noticed an odd smell around the coach. At first I thought something was leaking from the coach or the car until I finally realized that I was smelling moth balls, or at least the naphtha smell of moth balls. On Tuesday I was looking for something inside one of the cargo compartments under the coach and I noticed small white balls under the center of the coach. MOTH BALLS! Someone had spilled a bunch of moth balls in the gravel of the space we were parked in - that was where the smell was coming from. I raked up as many of the balls, and pieces as some of them had been crushed, as I could and threw them in the trash. I didn’t completely get rid of the smell, some had gotten into the dirt and probably wouldn’t go away for a long time, but I really reduced the level of it. At least now I can walk around outside without my eyes watering.

That is going to be the end of this episode. We will be in Great Falls for a week or so before we start our journey South towards Nevada and “home”. Until the next post, practice the three “L”s - Live, Laugh and Love.

Sunday, September 6, 2009

Our Alaska Caravan - The Final Week

Our previous post documented the sixth week of our 48 day Alaska caravan and finished with us in Teslin, Yukon Territory. This chapter will cover the final six days of our epic adventure.

Wednesday, August 26 - Day Forty-three. Today’s journey from Teslin, Yukon Territory to Watson Lake, YT was only about 150 miles and it was straight down the Alaska Highway. We had run this route in the other direction on day five of the trip, over five weeks ago. Basically, the trip was pretty uneventful - the roads were OK and we didn’t see any wildlife. We did stay in a different RV park this time. The first time in Watson Lake we stayed right in downtown, next to the famous Sign Forest. This time we stayed at the Baby Nugget RV Park about 5 miles North of town. We are staying here because it is right near the intersection of the Alaska Highway and the Cassiar Highway, our next route.

After we got set up in the park Jackie and I headed into Watson Lake to do a couple of geocaches that we had identified in the area. One of them was actually inside the sign forest, hidden between two signs on one of the posts. We also wanted to check at the local electronics store to see if they had an ink cartridge for our printer - we had just run dry. We found the store but it had a sign that said it was closed for the day. Oh well. After our caching we headed back to the park in time for the travel meeting for the next day. We are only staying in Watson Lake for the one night. After the travel meeting we went to dinner at the restaurant at the RV park with Gary and Dee. We had an excellent dinner and a good evening of conversation with Gary and Dee. We had not had a chance to spend much one on one time with them. They are originally from Connecticut, but are now full timers located in Florida. He is a retired heavy equipment mechanic, a very handy profession to have on a trip like this. After dinner we just went back to the coach for the rest of the evening.

Thursday, August 27 - Day Forty-four. Today we head down the Cassiar Highway, BC Route 37. The Cassiar Highway was constructed in the early 70's as a connector between the Alaska Highway and Canada’s Highway 16 which runs from Prince Rupert on the West coast all the way across Western Canada to Winnipeg, Manitoba. Our ultimate destination and reason for going down the Cassiar is to get to Stewart, BC. However, because of the distance involved we were only going 208 miles to a small village called Iskut, a little over half way to Stewart. About 10 miles South of the Alaska Highway we crossed into British Columbia and left the Yukon Territory for the last time, at least for this trip.

About 75 miles down the road we stopped at a place called Jade City. Jade City is really just one store and the headquarters for a jade mining operation. The actual jade mine is a couple dozen miles into the mountains, but the store had a lot of jade jewelry and decorative items for sale. They also had raw pieces of jade for those who want to make their own jewelry. We looked around but resisted buying anything. We got back on the road to finish the last 125 miles of the drive and found that the Cassiar highway is in pretty poor condition. There were a lot of frost heaves and gravel sections. It also started to rain so we were driving in the wet gravel and dirt getting the coach and car really muddy and gritty. To top it off, I started getting a faint “dinging” sound from somewhere under the dash that sounded just like one of the warning chimes, but not quite as loud. None of the gauges showed anything amiss and there were no warning lights. I had read on one of the Monaco chat sites a while back about other Monaco owners having similar alarms when driving in wet weather. Apparently some sensor under the coach is getting wet and sounding a false alarm. Although there was nothing wrong with the coach I had to listen to the dinging sound for the rest of the afternoon. Very annoying.

We finally got into the park by late afternoon because we could only drive about 40 miles per hour on the poor roads. The park was certainly nothing to shout about, grass sites with no sewer, but we were only there for one night. We were also deep into mosquito country and they were terrible. Jackie and I finally got to use the mosquito head nets we bought just after starting the trip. They actually worked pretty well. We had our travel meeting in the park’s restaurant and lounge area. After the meeting several of the members of the caravan stayed for a special meatloaf dinner made by the park’s owner. We decided we didn’t want meatloaf so we had arranged to have dinner in our coach with Peggy and Vern. Jackie made her chili relleno casserole and Peggy brought some beans and other goodies. We had a very nice Mexican dinner and a good evening of conversation.

I should also note that shortly after arriving at the park in the afternoon we learned that the caravan had suffered another serious mechanical casualty. Linda and Ernie had stopped at Jade City some time after we left and when they went to leave found that the transmission on their motorhome was not working properly. They had an older gas coach with about 150,000 miles on it. Doug, our Tailgunner had stayed with them in Jade City to ensure that they got help. Apparently a flat bed tow truck came down from Watson Lake, loaded the coach up and took it up to Watson Lake. Linda and Ernie followed the truck back to Watson Lake and Doug and Linda ended up stopping at one of the fuel stations on the road to Iskut to spend the night because it got too late. They showed up in Iskut as we were getting ready to leave the next day.

Friday, August 28 - Day Forty-five. Today was another early start - we had 183 miles of bad road to travel from Iskut, BC to Stewart, BC. We were on the road around 8:30. Again, other than the road being rough and tumble with a few gravel spots, the trip was uneventful. Not much scenery, other than trees, until we got within 25 miles of Stewart. The Cassiar Highway (Hwy 37) runs pretty much North-South. To get to Stewart we had to take Highway 37A, a spur that heads straight West. Once on this spur we started down a river valley, and ultimately into a river canyon, that provided spectacular scenery. Although it was rainy and a little foggy we could still see that the mountains to the South of the road were spotted with glaciers and there were waterfalls all over the place. And the road, although a little narrow and winding, was in fairly good shape. We arrived at the RV park about 2:00 and got settled in.

At 3:30 all of our caravan was in so we all got in our cars and headed through Stewart, a Canadian town of about 1,200 population, into the neighboring “town” of Hyder, Alaska. Stewart, BC, sits right on the Western border between Canada and Alaska, very near the southernmost part of the Alaska panhandle. There is no US customs checkpoint between the two towns so you just drive across into Hyder. When you cross the border the road turns to dirt and you would swear that you just went back in time 70 years and into the wilderness. Hyder has a permanent population of about 65 and is VERY rustic. It is all dirt roads and broken down buildings, log cabins. There is a general store and two gift shops, but other than that it is only a few old wooden buildings.

The reason we went to Hyder is that about 10 miles North of town is a US Forest Service site that provides close-up viewing of wild bears at certain times of the year. There is a stream, Fish Creek, that is a major King Salmon spawning creek. Usually in August and September the fish come up the river to spawn and the bears come out of the woods to eat the fish. We have seen pictures taken in the area that show as many as 10 bears, both black bears and grizzlies, in the stream fishing and eating. The bears are getting ready for hibernation and trying to bulk up and the fish make great meals. The Forest Service has installed a network of elevated wooden boardwalks along the stream so people can stand up there and watch the bears. Historically, the bears don’t seem to bother the people and the noise the people make doesn’t seem to bother the bears. Seems to be a no-conflict zone. Larry says the bears aren’t bothered because they have been coming here every year since they were cubs.

A few days prior to our visit to Stewart, Larry, our wagonmaster, had told us that he had been in contact with another caravan’s wagonmaster who had been in Stewart already, and had been told that the fish were in and the bears were making an appearance. Unfortunately, when our group got to the site, there were a lot of large salmon in the river, but no bears. Supposedly they come out mostly in the mornings and evenings, which is why we went up there when we did. We were there about 4:30 p.m. or so and waited about an hour and a half, but no bears. There were probably a hundred people on the boardwalk. Many of them had very expensive cameras with huge telephoto lenses set up on big tripods. We were told that they were the professional photographers trying to get good saleable wildlife shots. Unfortunately, it was raining a little which made it uncomfortable. The people with the big cameras had little umbrellas over the cameras to keep them dry. About 6:00 or so we gave up and headed back to Stewart.

When you pass back from Hyder, Alaska to Stewart, BC the Canadian customs service does have a check point. Larry made a point of telling everyone to make sure they took their passports or other ID with them or they might not get back into Canada where our RV’s were parked. The customs guy was a young officer who just asked where we had been and where we were headed. Very easy crossing for a change. We got back to the coach, had dinner and spent the rest of the night in.

Saturday, August 29 - Day Forty-Six. Today was a free day so we were able to sleep in a little and relax in the morning for a change. Larry and Doug, our two leaders, did cook a nice pancake and sausage breakfast which, since it didn’t start until 9:30 a.m., we attended. Very good breakfast. About noon we drove into Stewart and walked around the town for a while. There was one geocache in the town, which we found and logged. One of the places we wanted to visit was the Toaster Museum, located in one of the hotels. We walked up to the door and it was unlocked, so we walked in and started looking around. There were hundreds of old toasters, blenders, mixers and other small appliances all over the place. Many of them looked like they dated back to the early 1900's when electricity really started to be available everywhere. After about 5 minutes a lady walked in and told us that the museum was not open today! We told her that the door was unlocked and she said that she just had to run out for a bit and didn’t think to lock it. She could have told us to continue to look around since we were there, but she didn’t - she asked us to leave. Oh well, we’ve been kicked out of better places!

After our short tour of Stewart we headed back out on the highway we had come in on. The day was much clearer and we wanted to get some pictures of the scenery while the weather was nice and we weren’t trying to guide the RV through the canyon. We spent a couple hours driving about 25 miles back up the highway and then back down, taking pictures as we went. There were dozens of glaciers including some right down by the river and close to the road. It was a very scenic trip. After that tour we drove over the border to Hyder, Alaska again to sightsee a little there. We visited the general store and found that the owner was a native Californian who moved to Hyder in the 80's. He was from the same area of Los Angeles County that Jackie is. He told us a lot about the Hyder story - that there was little or no government presence - no police, no city government, no zoning, no nothing - and that was just how they liked it. Most of the townspeople carry guns and, as he said, “we take care of our own.” There are only a handful of kids in the town so there is no school. Those that are there have to be home schooled.

We also visited the other two gift shops in town and drove around taking pictures. I did get a glimpse of a small black bear walking down one of the streets, but he went into the bushes before Jackie could see him or get a picture. When I mentioned this to one of the shopkeepers he said bears walking in town was an everyday occurrence. While driving around town I commented to Jackie that this was closest I have seen to what my preconceived notion of Alaska was - like something out of Northern Exposure, the old 90's TV show. After getting our fill of Hyder we headed back into Stewart. Again, the border crossing into Canada was very friendly and perfunctory.

About 5:00 p.m. we drove back over to the bear viewing area North of Hyder. We took Peggy and Vern with us. We wanted to take one more shot at seeing the bears in the river. Again we stayed about 90 minutes and got tired of waiting. We headed back to Stewart and dinner in the coach. About 9:00 we were eating dinner and heard a knock at the door. It was Larry telling us that we left about 15 minutes too soon, that two bears had finally showed up. Oh well, sometimes the bears come, sometimes they don’t!

Sunday, August 30, Day Forty-seven. Today was our last travel day with the Fantasy caravan. We had a little over 200 miles to drive from Stewart, BC to Smithers, BC. This turned out to be a very easy drive. Once we hit Highway 16, the Transcanada Highway, the road got smooth and wide. We didn’t see any wildlife along the way although there were all kinds of signs warning of deer, elk and moose. We arrived in Smithers, BC in the early afternoon and got settled into the park. At 6:00 p.m. we all drove into town to one of the local hotels for our Farewell Dinner. There was a nice bar there so we had about 45 minutes of social time then into the dinner. The dinner was a nice buffet in a very nice room. After dinner Larry and Doug made little speeches about how great the trip was and how happy they had been to have this group on the caravan. A couple of the members of the group also got up and gave brief talks about how much fun they had. It was a little sad to be beginning the process of saying goodbye to people you have been around nearly 24/7 for the last seven weeks. Even Linda and Ernie, the couple who’s coach broke down a few days earlier, were at the dinner. Although their coach was out of commission, awaiting a new transmission, they drove their car down from Watson Lake just so they wouldn’t miss the final dinner. After dinner we headed back to the coach for the rest of the night.

Monday, August 31 - Day Forty-eight - the Last Day. The “last day” was really only a continental breakfast in the morning and then we were on our own again. Jackie and I did get up and out in time to have a roll and coffee with most of the group. After breakfast the group started heading out. Seven of us decided to head to Prince George, about 260 miles East, and stay at the same RV park for a couple of nights. The other three decided to start heading South to the border right away. Although it took five hours to get to Prince George from Smithers, it was primarily because of the distance, not the roads for a change. Highway 16 is a main artery and was a very nice road all the way. We got settled into the RV park - which we had to pay for ourselves for the first time in seven weeks - and visited with some of the other couples who decided to go there.

About 7:00 we all got together for a sort of a potluck dinner. A couple of people set up BBQs and most people cooked some of the fish that we had caught on the various fishing trips. Everyone brought a side dish of some sort and we had a very nice dinner. After dinner we went back to the coach and I spent some time plotting out our next few weeks of travel. After having someone else take care of everything for us, it was a bit of a shock to have to work it all out myself again. Yikes, can I do it?

Well loyal readers, that marks the end of segments on our Alaska Caravan Adventure. It was a fantastic trip and the few words and pictures I was able to place on this blog don’t begin to describe the things we did and saw. We drove the coach 4,438 miles with the caravan, from the beginning at Dawson Creek on July 15th to the end at Smithers on August 31st. We met some great people on the trip, some of which I know will be lifetime friends. We knew this would an adventure of a lifetime and it was - we had a wonderful time. Now we are back to our “normal” lives, making our own plans and traveling on our own for the most part. I hope you enjoyed reading about our trip and continue to check our blog from time to time for updates on what we are doing now.

Until the next time, safe travels and great adventures.