Friday, July 27, 2012

Exploring Mississippi along the Natchez Trace

Hi there, glad you’ve come back for the next chapter of our story.  Our last chapter concluded on Tuesday, July 10th, with our arrival in Natchez, Mississippi after a somewhat difficult 150 mile drive from Abita Springs, Louisiana.  It rained most of the way, we hit a low hanging tree limb five minutes into the trip and smashed our satellite dome, our entry steps got stuck in the out position and I had to lie on the wet ground for 20 minutes fixing them.  Needless to say, we had a couple of cocktails after our arrival at Natchez State Park, but didn’t go out anywhere.  We spent the rest of the day after getting setup just getting relaxed.

The state park we are in is part of the Mississippi State Park system and is a very nice campground.  The sites are all fairly large with concrete pads and asphalt drives, 50 amp electric and water.  There are no sewer connections, but there is a dump station at the entrance to the campground so we can dump the tanks on the way out.  It is very woodsy and on the first night we saw an armadillo wandering around the campground not too far from our site.

Wednesday, July 11th, Happy 7-11 day!  We learned that today is the 85th anniversary of the 7-11 convenience chain as well as some anniversary of the Slurpee, a big staple at the 7-11.  As a result, all 7-11 stores are giving away free Slurpees.  Yea!  Oops, no 7-11s in this area.  Rats.  We left the coach with the Babcocks about 10:00 to go out for some sightseeing and hopefully some caching.  The rain, however, does not seem to be letting up and the forecast has thunderstorms predicted for the next four or five days, so we may not get too much caching done.

We drove into Natchez, which is about six miles south of the campground, and made our first stop at the Natchez Visitor’s Center.  We did look for a cache that was supposed to be hidden there near the parking lot, but we couldn’t find it and after looking for about ten minutes the skies opened up again so we gave up.  We spent some time in the visitor’s center gathering information about Natchez and the surrounding area, as well as the Natchez Trace National Parkway, which starts here in Natchez and is the reason for our coming to this part of Mississippi.

Natchez was founded by French Colonists in 1716 and was built on a 200 foot bluff overlooking the Mississippi River, thereby ensuring it would be safe from any possible flooding of the river.  By the mid-1800s it is said that there were 25 millionaires in the United States and 11 of them lived in Natchez.  It was an area of huge homes, lush plantations and was a center of commerce along the river.  Today the city has about 23,000 population and is primarily a tourist destination.  Natchez was the capital of the Mississippi Territory and was the first capital of the State of Mississippi.  The capital was moved to Jackson in 1822.

Since it was raining off and on we decided to just do a driving tour of the city.  We drove by several of the very elegant, restored mansions around the city, including one which takes up an entire city block and is said to be among the largest antebellum mansions in the country.  We wanted to have lunch at a place called Kings Tavern, which dates back to the early 1700's, however the place was closed down and out of business.  Ray had been told by some people at the campground in Abita Springs to be sure to go to the Kings Tavern, and it was written up in several guide books, but I guess it just couldn’t generate the business.

About noon we decided to stop at a large Mexican restaurant called La Fiesta that we found on one of the main streets.  There were a lot of cars in the lot, so we figured it must be popular.  It was a very big place with a fairly typical Mexican fare menu.  I had a combo with a chili reallno, a burro and a taco.  It was mediocre food at best.  It didn’t taste bad, it just didn’t taste anywhere near authentic.  The burro and taco were ground beef, which you only get in cheap restaurants in the southwest.  The chili reallno was bland and the cheese oily.  Not the best we have had.  Jackie had fajitas, which she said were pretty good, but there you have real chunks of grilled chicken, so it’s not surprising that it tasted better.

After lunch we drove around a little more in the rain, looking at local sights, but not getting out of the car for anything.  Finally, about 2:00 we headed back to the campground so the Babcocks could walk the dog.  We got together for cocktails later in the afternoon with Ray and Suzie, but none of us wanted any dinner, so after they left we just relaxed and watched TV the rest of the night while listening to the rain.

Thursday, July 12th, we remember Joe Rielly, a good friend that passed away six years ago today.  Joe was married to one of Jackie’s closest friends, Helen, and they lived in Pittsfield, Massachusetts.  We just happened to be back there in 2006 visiting during our first full year on the road.  Jackie and I were with Helen on a day trip to Lake George in upstate New York when she got the news that Joe had been found dead of a heart attack at their house.  Very tragic day.

I got up and left the coach very early, about 7:30, and took the Jeep down to the local Jeep dealer for a service.  Because our Jeep is a diesel, with a Mercedes engine, I always take it to the dealer for service.  It was overdue, but only by a few hundred miles.  They got the car right into the service bay, but it still took over four hours to get the oil change, lube and fuel filter changed.  The fuel filter was the big holdup.  It is located in a spot where they have to let the engine cool down almost completely before they can work on it.  They finally got done a little after noon and I drove back to the campground.  The rest of our group was having a leisure/chores day and when I came in Jackie and Suzie were working on new seat covers for the front two chairs in the coach.  The leather gets kind of sticky in the summer and irritates my skin, so we got some fleece material to make covers.

I spent some time working on the blog and doing other chores and we spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing.  The Babcocks came over for happy hour and then we had dinner together with a chicken dish that Jackie had made.  We chatted for a while after dinner before the Babcocks went back to their coach and we watched TV until bedtime.

Friday, July 13th, EEK!  Oh, what the heck, we’re not afraid.  We woke up with rain - again.  We left the coach after lunch to just go out and do some more driving around sightseeing.  We are kind of running out of things to drive by and look at, but there were a couple of places we hadn’t been yet.  Even though it was raining off and on we did stop near the old downtown part of Natchez to capture one geocache.  We hadn’t gotten any in Natchez yet and couldn’t leave town without at least one.  Right next to where the cache was hidden was one of the places we wanted to visit, a gift shop called The Old South Trading Post.  It is really just a small, but cram-packed gift shop in the restored train station, but it is listed in most of the material about Natchez as a “must see” place.  We looked around for a while and I bought a tee shirt.

After that stop we drove around for a couple hours, checked to see if the Elks Lodge was open, which it wasn’t, and looked for anything interesting we might have missed in our previous explorations.  We had found the Elks lodge a few days ago, but it was closed and there was no sign on the door indicating when it was open.  The building was being maintained, there was a new flag flying and the swimming pool looked like it was being taken care of.  All this indicated that the lodge was still in business, but they don’t answer the phone and they have no answering machine.  This time we drove by there was someone swimming in the pool with his kids.  He was a member and it turns out that the lodge is not open for regular hours.  They only open for meetings and special events.  He did invite us to a BBQ at the lodge next week, but we will be long gone by then.  I guess no lodge pin from Natchez Lodge 533.

After a while we headed back to the campground so Ray could walk the dog.  We had cocktails and discussed where we might want to go for dinner.  We were reading a bunch of stuff we picked up from the visitor’s center and finally settled on a place called Lil Dagos, an Italian place, but one which had muffelletas on the menu.  Ray had loved the one he had in Louisiana and we had not been seeing them on menus around these parts so we thought they might be strictly a New Orleans type thing.  When we drove to the restaurant we found a fairly small strip mall restaurant, but the service was great and the food was outstanding.  Both Ray and I ordered a full sandwich so we could eat half, which is a full meal, and take the other half home for another day.  Jackie had a chicken and eggplant Parmesan dish and said it was wonderful.  Our muffelletas where as good as the ones in Louisiana, and Suzie had a shrimp fettuccini that had a wonderful cream sauce.  We all took leftovers out and all enjoyed the meal very much.  I can highly recommend Lil Dagos Italian Restaurant on Highway 435 in Natchez, Mississippi.  After dinner we went back to the campground and just relaxed the rest of the night.

Saturday, July 14th, our last full day in Natchez.  We actually woke up to sunny skies for the first time since we arrived.  I used the good weather to finish taking the smashed satellite dome off of the roof of the coach and took down the shade screens while they were dry.  It was nice to be able to do some things outside around the coach without getting wet. 

We decided to leave the campground early, about 11:00, and do lunch at another of the “must see” places in town.  This one was a small restaurant called Mammy’s Cupboard, located on Highway 61, about five miles south of town.  The place was built in 1940 as a diner and is basically a 28 foot tall character built to resemble the “Aunt Jemima” character.  However, Jackie thought she looked more Chinese than Black.  The restaurant is under her skirt.  You really have to look at the picture to get a feel for the place.  A lot of roadside stops were built in the 40's and 50's to resemble things like tee pees, airplanes, barrels, etc., and this was one of those types of buildings.  The history of the place is that over the years it was used for various purposes, including a gas station, a gift shop, and more recently a restaurant, what it was originally built for.  The new owners have refurbished the exterior with new paint and repairs, and cleaned up the small interior. 

The place is only open about three hours a day for lunch and has a very limited menu because of the very small kitchen facilities.  They have one hot lunch special, a different one each day of the week, and about ten sandwich choices.  Ray and I had the Reuben, which was quite good.  The girls had chicken salad sandwiches, which they said were a little dry and tasteless.  The little lump of potato salad that came with the meal was also very dry.  The homemade cup of vegetable beef soup was excellent.  I would only rate the food fair, the service good and the atmosphere interesting.  It’s one of those “got to be there once” kind of places.

After our lunch we decided to drive north of Natchez and visit a couple of the smaller towns up that way.  We stopped first in Lafayette, Mississippi, which is about 18 miles north on Highway 61 and drove around for a little while.  We then continued another 20 miles to Port Gibson, Mississippi.  Port Gibson had a little more history and is considered the third oldest European settlement in the U.S., founded by the French in 1729.  It’s a small place, only about 1,600 population.  We drove around it for a little while and then drove on back to the campground.  After happy hour with the Babcocks we went back to our coach and had left overs for dinner.  We then just watched TV the rest of the night.

Sunday, July 15th, another travel day.  We left the campground about 10:00 and started our travel north to our next stop, Jackson, Mississippi.  This is where we start our travel on the Natchez Trace with the motorhomes.  We had driven the first eight miles of the Trace, which starts in Natchez, with the car during some of our exploration of the area.  We got on with the motor homes at MP 8 and started north.  Our goal is to drive all 444 miles of the trace to where it ends near Nashville, Tennessee.  The Natchez Trace, also known as the "Old Natchez Trace", is a historical path that links the Cumberland, Tennessee and Mississippi rivers.  It was created and used for centuries by Native Americans, and was later used by early European and American explorers, traders and emigrants in the late 18th and early 19th centuries.  Today, the trail is commemorated by the 444 mile Natchez Trace Parkway, which follows the approximate path of the Trace, and is a National Historical Parkway maintained by the U.S. Park Service. 

The roadway is a fairly narrow, two lane mostly asphalt strip which is closed to all commercial traffic.  This means no trucks and very little traffic.  The maximum speed is 50 MPH and there are turnouts and stops all along the way for historical sites and interesting natural features.  It’s like a long, narrow National Park.  We stopped at a couple of interesting places along the 100 miles we drove today.  We stopped at Mt. Locus, which is a restored roadhouse and home from the 1700's, as well as a couple of other sites.  Just before getting into Jackson we ran into a small, eight mile section of the Parkway that was closed for repairs, so I guess we won’t get every single one of the 444 miles in a vehicle.  We arrived in Jackson, Mississippi, the capital of Mississippi, about 2:30, and got settled into our next stop, the LeFleur’s Bluff State Park.  This is another of the Mississippi State Parks and, like the last one, has campsites with 50 amp electric power and water.  No sewers at the site, but a dump station on the way out.  This one sets under a bunch of trees and right on a small lake.  It is very picturesque, and unlike the last campground, which was ten miles out of town, this one is actually in the city.  We only have leave the park and we are in the heart of town.

Once we got the coaches set up and ready for our five night stay here we got in the car to go get a couple of geocaches.  We needed a cache on this date for our days of the year challenge, and there were several just outside of the entrance to the park.  We actually managed to five new finds in less than an hour.  After caching we went back to the campground and had happy hour with the Babcocks.  After happy hour we went back to our own coach for dinner and relaxation for the rest of the night.

Monday, July 16th, we needed to have a laundry day.  The Babcock’s needed to do laundry also, so we packed up all of our stuff in their car and the four of us left about 10:00 or so and went into town to a laundromat.  We played some cards while the clothes washed and dried, then went out for some lunch.  Jackson is the capital of Mississippi and we are very close to the capital building and the state offices, so there were several restaurants in the immediate area.  We settled on a place called Keiser’s, which was actually a Greek restaurant.  The place was very crowded, but we got a seat right away and we all had pita sandwiches of one sort or another.  Ray and Jackie had traditional gyros, I had a beef and cheese and Suzie had turkey.  Mine was excellent, everyone else said it tasted OK, but was a little dry.  Not the best Greek we have had, but decent.  After lunch we went back to the campground and unloaded the laundry and Ray walked the dog.

Our original plan was to go out and explore some more but unfortunately Ray got a phone call while we were in the laundry that their house back in California had been burglarized for the second time in two weeks.  Last time they took a couple of TVs and some jewelry and other small valuables and tried unsuccessfully to break into his gun safe.  This time they broke in and just took the gun safe with them.  Sadly, Ray and Suzie had to spend the afternoon on the phone, talking to their kids, the police, neighbors and the insurance company, so we didn’t get out again.  We spent the afternoon just relaxing.  We had cocktails with the Babcocks at happy hour then dinner on our own again.

Tuesday, July 17th, we woke up to the second bright sunny day in a row!  Yea, no rain, although it is still in the forecast.  I was glad to see the sun because we were scheduled to have a glass company come out and replace our broken windshield today.  The glass company got to the campground at about 9:00 and in less than two hours we had a nice new non-cracked windshield.  Yea!  We ate lunch in the coach and about noon the four of us got into our car for some exploring.

We decided to explore some of the Natchez Trace close to Jackson first.  When we leave here on Friday we will get on the trace at MP 100 and continue north, but the trip to our next stop, Tupelo, Mississippi, is 160 miles and we really won’t have the time to stop at every little turn out like we did on Sunday.  We thought we could check out the sights on the first 30 miles or so in the car so we wouldn’t have to visit in the coaches.  Much of the first 20 miles or so of the Trace north of Jackson run along the shore of the Ross Barnett Reservoir, a very large manmade lake on the Pearl River.  The reservoir is 33,000 acres in size and is quite beautiful.  There are no homes along the shore where the Trace runs, but the rest of the shoreline is dotted with very nice homes.

A few miles beyond the north end of the lake we came to a section of very impressive cypress swamp which was very picturesque in it’s own way.  We finally got off the Parkway at about milepost 135, so we covered about 35 miles in our travels.  We got back on the regular roads and checked out a couple of towns in the area northeast of Jackson.  One was Carthage, which was nothing special, just a nice little farming community.  We did find a geocache there, so we got one find for the day.  We saw a Walmart and our experience has been that there is almost always a geocache in a Walmart parking lot.  We checked on Jackie’s smart phone and sure enough, there was a cache.

After Carthage we drove southwest back towards Jackson and drove through the City of Canton.  Canton was a larger town, about 13,000 population, and it has the distinction of having most of the buildings in the center of town, around the town square, on the National Register of Historic Buildings.  Looking at the town square takes one back a hundred years.  All of the buildings are beautifully restored and very authentically old looking.  There have been dozens of movies filmed in Canton just because of the old fashioned look of the town square.  They even have a movie museum with memorabilia from some of the movies made there.  We were there late, so we couldn’t get into the museum.  They also have an Elks Lodge there, but it too was closed and later research showed is was never open for regular hours, just for meetings. 

After looking around Canton we continued south back to Jackson and the campground.  We let Ray walk the dog and rest for a half hour or so and then we were back in the car headed out to dinner.  We decided on Chinese, but didn’t want a buffet.  There was a place very nearby called Mr. Chen’s Oriental Supermarket and Restaurant, a very clumsy name, but the place had almost universal excellent ratings on Yelp.  We decided to try it and were not disappointed.  It was some of the finest Chinese food I have had.  We ordered way too much food, each of us had a different entree, we had fried rice, egg rolls and soup as well.  We ended up taking as much home for another dinner as we ate in the restaurant.  The menu was huge and very authentic, there we some dishes on the menu I had never seen before at any restaurant.

After dinner we spent a while walking through the very large Oriental supermarket and again were surprised at the variety of Asian food items for sale.  This was a very impressive place and I can highly recommend it for anyone who finds themselves in need of Asian food, either prepared or not, while in Jackson, Mississippi.  It is on the west frontage road of I-55, near exit 103.  Excellent choice for lunch, dinner or just shopping for ingredients for your own meal.  After Mr. Chen’s we went back to the campground where we relaxed the rest of the evening.

Wednesday, July 18th, the four of us left the campground, with Ray driving today, about 10:00 for a day trip to Vicksburg, Mississippi, a city on the Mississippi river about 45 miles west of Jackson.  It took about an hour or so to get to Vicksburg because of road construction and traffic.  Our first stop in Vicksburg was at the Vicksburg National Military Park.  Vicksburg was the site of a crucial series of battles during the Civil War.  The siege of Vicksburg occurred in the summer of 1863 with the city falling to the attacking Union forces on July 4th, 1863.  Most historians cite this week as the turning point in the war with the advantage moving to the Union.  The day before General Lee’s Confederate forces were turned back at Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, thus halting the northern thrust of the Confederacy.  The loss of Vicksburg the next day finalized total Union control of the Mississippi River, thus effectively cutting the Confederacy in half.  It because very difficult for the Confederate forces to support their efforts in Louisiana, Arkansas, Texas, Missouri and other areas west of the river.

We toured the visitor’s center at the park and then took about two hours or so to drive the 16 mile interior tour road.  The park covers over 1,800 acres along the east boundary of Vicksburg and includes 1,325 historic monuments and markers, 20 miles of historic trenches and earthworks, 12.5-mile walking trail, two antebellum homes, 144 emplaced cannons, the partially restored remains of the gunboat USS Cairo which was sunk on December 12, 1862, on the Yazoo River by , Confederate artillery fire.  The ship was recovered from the silt of the river in 1964.  The Cairo, also known as the "Hardluck Ironclad," was the first U.S. ship in history to be sunk by a torpedo/mine.  The Vicksburg National Cemetery is also on the grounds of the park.  During our tour we also gathered information to give us credit for finding a virtual geocache.  We needed to log a cache for this date for our days of the year challenge and the only caches allowed in National parks are victuals.  We had to find four different sites along the tour road and get information from the monuments we found there.

After our tour of the National Park we drove around Vicksburg a little while and then went to one of the casinos that are along the Mississippi.  In Mississippi casinos are allowed, but they must be floating on water, so the only place you find them are along rivers and along the Gulf Coast in Biloxi.  They build them on barges, sometimes disguised as river boats, sometimes just square buildings on a big barge.  The one we went to, Diamond Jack’s, was one of those that just looked like a building sitting on the edge of the river.  We had a quick lunch at the deli in the casino and then gamed for about 45 minutes.  We were pressed for time because the tour of the battlefield park had taken longer than we expected and the Babcocks had to get back to the campground because of the dog. 

We finally got back to the campground about 4:00 and relaxed for a while before getting together with the Babcocks for happy hour and dinner.  Ray heated up the leftovers from our Chinese meal the night before and it was just as good as the first time.  There was more than enough for a full meal for all of us.  About 7:00 we got our first taste of rain since the afternoon of our arrival here in Jackson.  We had almost three full days of sunshine and nice weather.  The rain tonight was heavy at times, with lots of thunder, but no wind or hail.  The weather alert radio did go off with a flash flood warning for the area, but it passed about an hour later with no issues.  We went back to our coach about 7:30 and relaxed the rest of the night.

Thursday, July 19th, our last day in Jackson.  We left the coach in our car about 11:00 and headed out to Arby’s for lunch.  Ray and I both have been wanting Arby’s and there were none in Natchez or Abita Springs.  We had lunch and then the both of us bought a bunch of extra sandwiches to put in the freezer for future lunches.  They freeze really good, a trick I learned years ago when we were traveling for a while with some other old friends, Marianne and David Conner.  David, who died several years ago, loved Arby’s and told me about freezing them.

After lunch we did some geocaching around the central Jackson area.  We found six new caches, with no DNFs, although there were a couple that we went to and decided not to even try to look for because they were out in the brush and poison ivy.  We then noticed that the sky was starting to look really dark and threatening and we still needed to make a quick stop at Walmart before going home.  We got into Walmart, got our shopping done and were just pulling out of the parking lot when the sky opened up, the thunder and lightening started, and we had one big storm going on.  It rained on and off for a couple hours with the rain coming down as hard as I have ever seen it, kind of like when were in Abita Springs a couple weeks ago.  There was so much lightening around that we didn’t even unload the car when we got home.  We waited until the worst of the storm had passed before we took out the groceries.  We had cocktails and dinner at the Babcock’s coach.  He made taco salad, which is one of his specialties and is always great.  After dinner we went back to our coach and relaxed the rest of the night.

Friday, July 20th, another travel day on the Natchez Trace.  We got on the trace at MP 101 and headed northeast for Tupelo, Mississippi, about 180 miles away.  We did 159 miles of the Trace Parkway, getting off at MP 160 just outside of Tupelo.  We made a couple of stops along the way, but this stretch really didn’t have much to see in the way of historical sights.  Lots of places where things had happened in the past, but there was nothing physical to look at so we just read about the stuff in the guidebook.  It sure is peaceful and easy driving on the Trace, no traffic, no trucks, just lots of green and trees.

Our final destination for the day is Trace State Park, another of the Mississippi State Parks.  Like the last one, Trace State Park is built around a lake, but this one is very large.  They have several campgrounds and we are a spot that is right on the edge of the lake.  We also have full hookups, meaning we have sewer.  This is the first time in nearly three weeks that we have had sewer at our site.  Yea, long showers again!  We got set up pretty quick, although it was very hot and humid.  We had made our reservations about four months ago, so we had a really nice site.  The Babcocks didn’t make theirs until about six weeks ago and the site they ended up with was really unuseable for their coach.  It was a double site, meaning two sites side by side on the same driveway.  It was way too narrow for their big coach, which is like ours, 40 feet with four slides.  They thought they were going have to go to the other campground on the other side of the park because all of the sites in this campground were booked for the weekend.

Then, just as they were getting ready to leave to go find a spot elsewhere a lady came over from the campsite across the road and asked what the problem was.  When we explained the Babcock’s issue, she told us that she had rented the site right across from us, which was a large pull through, but had decided to just bunk with her cousin and not bother to bring her trailer in for the weekend.  She told the Babcocks they were welcome to use it instead of the one they had booked.  Everything worked out perfect and now the Babcocks have a nice site too.  The South really is full of nice people. 

After we got set up we just stayed in and relaxed for the rest of the night.  I was hot and tired and didn’t feel like company.  We watched TV and chilled all evening.  We will be here for five days, so there is plenty of time to visit and see the sights.

Saturday, July 21st, we left the campground in our car for a day of exploration around Tupelo.  Of course our first stop had to be Elvis Presley Memorial Park, the birthplace of the King of Rock and roll!  In 2006, our first full year on the road, we went through Memphis and visited Graceland, the home where Elvis died in 1977 and where he is buried.  Now we have the chance to see where he was born in 1935.  The little shotgun shack that his father Vernon built in 1934 for $180 is the original building in it’s original location.  None of the furnishings in the house are original because the Presley’s moved a couple of years later to a neighboring house.  The city of Tupelo bought the house and the surrounding property in 1957 after Elvis became famous.  Some of the funds for the project were donated by Elvis and were proceeds from his 1956 “homecoming” concert at the Lee County Fairgrounds in Tupelo.

The site, which is a Mississippi Historical site, has a nice park, a museum with a lot of Elvis memorabilia, the church the Presley’s attended while they lived in Tupelo, and where Elvis sang, and, of course, a gift shop.  The church is the original building but it was moved to the park from its original location a mile or so away.  They also have a 1939 Plymouth sedan on display which is similar to the car the Presley’s used when they moved from Tupelo to Memphis in 1948.  There is also a major expansion of the museum currently under construction.  We spent about an hour walking around the museum and the grounds, enjoying the history and the memories of Elvis.  We also found a geocache which was hidden on the edge of the museum grounds.

Other interesting historical facts I discovered about Tupelo are that George Kelly Barnes, the famous gangster and bank robber known as “Machine Gun Kelly” did his last known bank robbery in Tupelo on November 30, 1932.  In April 1936 the city was hit with an EF5 tornado that wiped out a neighborhood and killed more than 216 people.

After our tour of the Elvis museum we stopped for lunch at a very nice place called simply The Grill.  The food was OK in that Jackie’s fish tacos were very good and my Philly cheese steak was not so good.  Great meat, but very little cheese and no peppers or onions.  Not a very authentic Philly.  Ray and Suzie split a shrimp po boy which they said was tasty, but it was not very big.  I probably wouldn’t go back to the place again.

After lunch we did some more geocaching and exploring of the town.  We ended up getting six more finds for a total of seven for the day with no DNFs.  One of the caches was a little odd in that it was located near a large metal and plastic replica guitar, decorated with Elvis pictures, and playing music 24/7 over loudspeakers.  The music is from an “all Elvis all the time” radio station.  I guess it is a good thing that it is in an industrial area because I don’t think a residential neighborhood would appreciate the nonstop music.

Once we were done caching we made a quick stop at Wally World and then went back to the campground.  We got together with the Babcocks for happy hour and then the four of us BBQed some steaks and had dinner together in their coach.  After dinner we went back to our place and relaxed the rest of the night.

Sunday, July 22nd.  Happy Birthday to my daughter Tracie and my great granddaughter Kirsten.  Kirsten, who is my daughter Tye’s grandchild, was my first great grand!  Yikes!  About 10:00 the four of us climbed into Ray’s car for a day of further exploration of northeast Mississippi.  However, when Ray turned the key nothing happened.  Oopsie.  After some discussion Ray decided that his five year battery was close to seven years old and he probably needed a new one.  I brought our car over and we jumped Ray’s, which started right up and ran fine.  We drove to an auto parts store in Tupelo where Ray had a new battery installed and we were off to exploring having only lost about a half hour.

Our primary destination for the day was Columbus, Mississippi, a town about sixty miles south of Tupelo and home of Columbus Air Force Base.  Ray, who is an Air Force vet, was stationed at Columbus back in the mid-sixties as a fire fighter.  He told us that at that time Columbus was a Strategic Air Command (SAC) base and was home to a wing of the very large B-52 bombers.  He has not been back since he left there in 1968 and went to Thailand.  He say that he knows that the mission of the base was changed years ago and it is now one of the Air Force’s primary training bases. 

Along the way we stopped at a truck stop for a potty break and I noticed that there was a geocache in the parking lot of the truck stop.  After the potty stop we found and logged the cache.  We then continued on to Columbus AFB, which is actually about six miles north of the City of Columbus.  We got on base and drove around for a while with Ray trying to find anything that looked familiar after forty-some years.  He didn’t and I wasn’t surprised since almost every building on the base looked fairly new except for a couple of the hangers along the flight line.  Over the past 25 years the military has closed about two thirds of the military bases in the United States in an effort to consolidate and save money.  Those bases that didn’t close were enhanced and greatly improved as the government spent a lot of money on them.  We did stop at the base exchange where we shopped for a little while, but didn’t buy much.  Ray also stopped at the base fire station and visited with the current crew a little.  He wanted to get a tee shirt, but they didn’t have any available.

After spending an hour or so on the base we left and drove down into the City of Columbus.  We stopped at an Applebee’s Restaurant for lunch and, although the food was OK, the service was abysmal.  They were slow, uncaring, inattentive and just generally bad.  Ray ordered a dish that was supposed to have shrimp on it and it came with none.  I ordered French onion soup and it was cold.  The reason the waitress gave was “we don’t do lunch on the weekends.”  Wait, what?  The menu doesn’t say soup only for lunch on weekdays, it offers soup, period.  Although Applebee’s is one of our favorite chain restaurants, I would steer clear of the one in Columbus, Mississippi.

After lunch we tried to get a geocache that was located near one of the town’s many antebellum mansions, but we couldn’t find it.  Had to log another DNF.  We then decided to stop caching since it was the middle of the afternoon and Ray had another couple of nearby towns he wanted to drive through before we started back towards home.  Columbus, which is a city of about 25,000 people, was the birthplace of playwright Tennessee Williams, and, in addition to the Air Force base, is home to several large industries, including the Eurocopter helicopter manufacturing facility.

We left Columbus and drove west about twenty miles to the town of Starkville.  Starkville also has a population of around 25,000, but is a little more affluent city and is the home of Mississippi State University.  We drove around downtown, which was very picturesque, for a while, but didn’t make any stops.  We then headed for the last town Ray wanted to visit, the City of West Point, Mississippi, not New York, and not the home of the Military Academy.  West Point, Mississippi has about 11,000 people and driving around the downtown shows evidence of serious decline.  I couldn’t find much of interest in either the history or the current state of the town in my research.

After looking around the three cities that Ray remembered from his time in the area in the sixties Ray decided things had changed.  Ya think?  I remember having the same thoughts the first time I visited Memphis, where I was stationed in the 60's.  Didn’t recognize much of anything.  We left West Point and headed back to Trace State Park and the campground.  On the way we drove through Pontotoc, the small town just west of the campground.  Pontotoc is very small and also didn’t appear to have too much going for it any more.

After we got back to the campground Ray and I made cocktails and sat outside under the shade of a big oak tree for about an hour watching the boats on the lake.  This was the first evening since we got here where the heat and humidity were low enough to make it comfortable to sit outside.  The campground, which was packed full over the weekend, is now nearly empty and very quite.  After cocktail hour we went to our own coaches and relaxed the rest of the night after a very busy and interesting day.

Monday, July 23rd, we woke up to blue skies and a weather forecast with no predicted chance of rain, the first of those in a couple weeks.  The four of us left the coach after lunch, about 12:30 or so, to go out and do some exploring and geocaching in the Tupelo area again.  We did four caches fairly close to the campground first, finding three of them but having to DNF the fourth.  We then took a break from caching to visit the Natchez Trace National Parkway Visitor’s Center.

Although the Trace is 444 miles long, there is only one official National Park Service visitor’s center and it is located just outside Tupelo at milepost 266.  This is a little over half way between Natchez and Nashville.  The center has lots of nice displays outlining the history of the trace from pre-European times through the modern improvements and creation of the National Parkway.  We spent about a half hour in the center looking at the exhibits and going through the gift shop.  Ray and I each got a very nice Natchez Trace tee shirt for our collections.  After the visitor’s center we stopped at a couple of the Parkway turnouts near Tupelo, including the Chickasaw Village, the site of an old Indian town.  There were no actual ruins or remains, but the Park Service did have several exhibits set up and had made outlines on the ground indicating where some of the more important structures might be.  We only explored the six miles or so of Trace between where we got off at MP 260 and the Visitor’s Center at MP 266.

After exploring this section of the Trace we set out to do some more caching.  We had a goal to get at least ten caches today because the Babcocks, who we introduced to caching earlier this year, needed ten to reach 100, their first major milestone.  We also needed a cache today for our days of the year challenge.  We worked a cluster of caches in the northwest part of Tupelo, which is the new shopping area for the city, and managed to get eight more finds with no more DNFs, which means a total of eleven finds for the day and the 100th cache for the Babcocks.  Yea Ray & Suzie!

After caching we drove back to the campground and relaxed for a while.  We got together for happy hour with the Babcocks and then they had dinner in our coach with us.  Jackie made her Chili Reallno casserole, which was very good.  After we chatted for a while the Babcocks left and we watched TV the rest of the evening.

Tuesday, July 25th, Jackie’s brother Dennis’ birthday.  Happy Birthday Bro!  The four of us decided we needed a day off, so we took one.  I took care of a few small chores around the coach, as did Jackie.  She finished the seat cover for my coach driver’s seat.  We have the pretend leather seats and when it gets warm it irritates my skin.  She bought some nice grey fleece fabric and, with the help of Suzie who had made some for their coach, fixed up my seat.  We did get together with the Babcocks for cocktails, but we had dinner on our own and just relaxed most of the day and evening.

Wednesday, July 26th, another travel day on the Natchez Trace Parkway.  We got everything packed up and pulled out of the campground around 9:30.  We made a quick stop for fuel on the highway between the campground and the Trace, but I think the owner saw us coming.  We went back and forth between town and the campground past this station every day except yesterday.  The price of diesel was $3.37, which was a good price.  When we pulled in with the motorhomes today it had gone up to $3.69!  That is a difference of almost $18 on the 55 gallons I put in the coach.  Rats!

After our fuel stop we got on the trace at MP 260 where we got off with the coaches five days ago.  We continued north, headed for an RV park near the town of Hohenwald, Tennessee, about 140 miles.  We made a couple of stops along the trace, including a really pretty little place called Cave Spring and another with some Indian mounds.  We also stopped at one picnic area for lunch.  We also stopped at a place where there were thirteen unknown Confederate soldiers buried.  No one is sure how they died, whether from wounds of battle or disease.  They were just buried beside the old trace pathway and the graves have been preserved by the National Park Service.  Each grave has an American and a Confederate flag.

Today’s part of our travels on the trace took us northeast along the last 50 miles of the Trace in Mississippi, through about 30 miles of Alabama and on into Tennessee.  We exited the Trace at MP 270, so we did 110 miles of the Trace today.  We got to our destination, the Natchez Trace Wilderness Preserve RV Park about 2:30.  This park is both a Thousand Trails membership resort and a KOA public park.  It is very large and the two companies have separate camping areas inside the park.  We are here under Thousand Trails and were fortunate to find two full hookup sites right next to each other.  We only have 30 amp power and with the heat that is going to be a bit inconvenient, but we will get by for five days.

We got parked and settled in and relaxed until about 6:00 when we drove into the closest town, Hohenwald, Tennessee, for dinner.  Although the closest, Hohenwald is still about 15 miles from the campground.  We found a Chinese buffet that was open and had dinner there.  The food was fair and the service poor, but it was inexpensive and filling.  The name of the place was Rong Garden and it would Rong of me to recommend it to anyone.  After dinner we drove back to the campground and crashed for the rest of the night.

Our arrival here in Tennessee makes a good stopping place for this chapter of the blog.  We will be here five days before finishing the last 77 miles of the Trace and heading into Nashville, Tennessee for a week long stay.  My closing words of wisdom will be from the fortune I found in last night’s fortune cookie - “Life to you is a dashing and bold adventure.”  Live everyday like the adventure it is.  Bye for now.

Thursday, July 12, 2012

Party in Louisiana

Hello again friends, welcome back to our story.  Regular followers will remember that our last episode ended on Sunday, June 24th, with us staying at the Thousand Trails park in Columbus, Texas.  We had arrived in Columbus three days earlier, on Thursday, and our original plan had us leaving on Sunday to drive east to Beaumont, Texas.  However, Mother Nature had other plans and threw Tropical Storm Debby into or path, sort of.

Tropical Storm Debby actually started developing in the southern part of the Gulf of Mexico a week or so ago.  It just kind of wandered around the Gulf, moving a little bit north until it was a couple hundred miles west of the coast of Florida.  It then stalled and gathered its skirts, becoming a tropical depression and then a tropical storm.  The weather experts had no clue as to where the storm was going to head.  On Saturday night, when we made the decision to stay put in Columbus for at least one more day, the probable storm track had Debby going pretty much straight west, not making landfall in the U.S., but causing some rain and flooding issues along the Gulf Coast, pretty much where we were headed.  By Sunday morning the storm track had shifted 90 degrees and was now due north, making landfall just east of New Orleans on Thursday, the same day we were supposed to arrive in New Orleans. 



About 5:00 we had cocktails and then we and the Babcocks drove into Columbus to try another of the local restaurants, Nancy’s Steakhouse.  It is a very nice place, modern and clean looking.  The hostess got us in and our waiter was right there.  The service at the place is very good, our waiter was attentive and responsive during our entire meal.  They have a very good menu and we started with two of their appetizers, the spicy fried crawfish tails and a dish they called a fondeaux, which was crawfish, mushrooms and shrimp sauteed in a cream sauce and finished with Italian cheese.  Both were good, the fondeaux was especially good.

The Babcocks split a big 16oz T-bone and I had the T-bone for myself.  Both steaks were very good quality and cooked just like each of us wanted.  The only snag was I had to tell the waiter, a young guy, what “blue” meant with regard to steak - very rare.  The salad bar was excellent and everything was moderately priced.  It was an excellent dining experience and I can highly recommend Nancy’s Steakhouse if you find yourself in Columbus, Texas for some reason.  It is right on the main street, just south of the I-10 and Texas 71 interchange.  After dinner we went back to the park and watched TV the rest of the night.

Monday, June 25th, we checked the weather reports and decided to stay one more day.  Debby was still kind of stuck, not moving much at all and still confusing the weather people, who were very uncertain still as to where it would eventually go.  All of the rain and wind was on the east side of the storm and pounding Florida.  The best guess now is that the storm will start to move to the east and northeast, mostly affecting Florida and missing New Orleans completely.

Since we were going to stay in Columbus another day we decided to go out and do some more geocaching.  The four of us left the RV park about 10:00 and headed out to get some of the more far-flung caches.  We ended up getting eight new caches with no DNFs, but we had to drive probably 80 miles to get the eight.  Several of them were in very old cemeteries, which are really interesting places to visit.  The last cache we found was close to the little town of Fayetteville, Texas, population 258.  Since it is the county seat of Fayette County, they have a little courthouse in the town square and nearly all the businesses in town are on the four sides of the square.  It is a very old looking town, almost to the point where it kind of looks like a movie set.  It seemed like most of the businesses were closed, but we did find Orsak’s Café right on the town square.  Not sure how you would run across this great place by accident, but we managed.  It seemed like everyone in town was going into this little place on the corner, so we tried it.  The food was wonderful.  We only had burgers and a couple of us had chilli, but everything that we did have was great.  The place is filled with pictures of people who live in the area and their families.  A lot of restaurants hang pictures of famous people who visit, but this is the first I have seen that puts pictures of just folks on the walls, and the shelves, and everywhere else.  Given the population I would guess a good percentage of the people in town have their pictures here.  Great place to eat if you wander into Fayetteville, by accident or on purpose.

After a great lunch we drove back to the RV park, just driving the country roads enjoying the scenery.  When we got back to the park we just relaxed the rest of the evening.  I did go out just after sunset to take down the outside screens and put away what little bit of stuff we put out.  We have agreed that the weather forecast for Debby is such that we can cancel our temporary hold and continue our travels east tomorrow.

Tuesday, June 26th, we finally left Columbus, Texas and got back on Interstate 10, driving east 160 miles to Beaumont, Texas.  We were two days late leaving, but it still looks like we will make it to New Orleans on time.  We arrived at the Gulf Coast RV Resort in Beaumont about 1:30 after a fairly uneventful drive.  We only stopped once for fuel and once for lunch on the trip.  The resort was very nice, just off the interstate, and we would have liked to have been able to spend the extra day we originally planned, but you do what you got to do.  We got parked and set up, but did the bare minimum we needed for a one night stay.  I didn’t even unhook the car since we didn’t plan on going anywhere and they gave us a pull through site. 

Ray and I did go over to the swimming pool, which was right across the road from our sites, just because we had nothing else to do.  The air temperature was in the high nineties and the water was in the low nineties.  It was really only refreshing for the first ten seconds after you got in, then it was like a bath.  We stayed at the pool, chatting with some people, for about a half hour before heading back to the coach.  We didn’t do anything other than watch TV and relax the rest of the afternoon and evening.

Wednesday, June 27th, we left Beaumont early, about 8:30, got back on I-10 and started east again, this time towards Breaux Bridge, Louisiana, another 150 miles or so.  We crossed the state line about 45 minutes after leaving the RV park at Texas milepost 880.  When you take into consideration our little detour off I-10 down to Corpus Christi, we drove well over 1,100 miles through Texas!  Wow!  Once we got into Louisiana we noticed that the quality of the roads kind of went in the dumper.  The roads we ran along today would make a Californian proud.

We arrived in Breaux Bridge, a small town just east of Fayetteville, Louisiana, about 11:30 and checked into Poche’s Fish N Camp RV park.  We had been told about Poche’s by our friends Peggy and Vernon Bullock, who had stayed here last year when they were in the south.  They said they had a great time.  It is also a Passport America park, which means we got to stay for half price, which turned out to be $16 for the night for a full hookup site.  The park is very interesting in that the sites are all spaced out around a couple of large, private fishing lakes.  Too bad our schedule will only allow for one day here, I would have liked to try my hand at some bass or catfish. 

We got our site, with the Babcocks pulling in right next to us, got the utilities hooked up, the slides out and the coach leveled.  As soon as we got that minimal work done and made sure the A/Cs were running, we unhooked our car and the four of us headed out of the park to go visit the Tabasco hot sauce plant.  One of the main things on my list of things to do here in this part of Louisiana was to visit the Tabasco plant, which is about 40 miles south of Fayetteville near the town of New Iberia, Louisiana. 

Our first stop after leaving the park was to stop at a little café in Breaux Bridge called Le Café.  The place was recommended by the lady at the RV park who checked us in.  All four of us had shrimp po boys, and they were wonderful.  The shrimp and the sauce was just a little spicy and the onion rings were great too.  The restaurant was really not much more than a small shack and probably only seated 20, but the food was outstanding.

After lunch we drove the 40 miles to New Iberia on some of the back roads of Louisiana through several very quaint little towns.  We were surprised to see a lot of very nice, very large homes along the state highways in this area.  Most were on multi-acre lots with huge front yards.  We drove by one that had a small two seat helicopter parked on the front lawn, not 100 yards from the front door.  We got to New Iberia about 1:30 and followed the signs to Avery Island, the private island that belongs to the McIlhenny Company and is where the primary distilling and bottling plant for Tabasco pepper sauce is located.

Tabasco pepper sauce was first produced in 1868 by Edmund McIlhenny, who had moved to Louisiana from Maryland around 1840.  When Edmund died in 1890, his eldest son, John Avery McIlhenny, took over and expanded and modernized the business.  John left in 1898 to fight in the Spanish-American war, so his brother Edward took over the company and ran it until his death in 1949.  The current CEO is Paul McIlhenny, the sixth of the McIlhenny men to run the business.

We took the factory tour, which really didn’t amount to too much.  The only thing that you saw was a portion of the bottling facility.  They had a 20 minute video that showed the process of making the sauce, but didn’t show you any of the pepper fields or the fermenting barrels.  The Capsicum peppers that are used to make Tabasco are a specific variety and until recently they were all grown on Avery Island.  Today most of the peppers are grown in Central and South America where more predictable weather and readily available farmland allow a larger year-round supply.  However, all of the seed for production world-wide come from the remaining fields on Avery Island. 

After they are harvested the peppers are ground into a mash, placed in white oak barrels and stored for fermenting and aging in a warehouse on the island.  After aging, the mash is strained to remove skins and seeds, mixed with vinegar and put in large vats to be stirred for a month.  Only then is it bottled as finished sauce. 

After we finished the factory tour we went into the company store, which is the real reason they draw you to Avery Island.  Of course I bought a tee shirt, but other than that we just looked around for a while.  Once we finished at the plant we drove back north to Breaux Bridge, stopped at Walmart for a bit, and then went back home.  We got together with the Babcocks for cocktails and some pizza that we bought a Walmart.  About 8:00 we were back in our own coaches for the rest of the night.

Thursday, June 28th, we left Poche’s around 9:30 for the next leg of our journey, another 150 miles east on I-10 to New Orleans, Louisiana.  We arrived in New Orleans about 1:30 after one stop for fuel and lunch on the way.  We also had to decompress a little from the part of the trip that took us through Baton Rouge.  There was major construction going on with the freeway through that area and we had about 40 miles of really hairy driving.  Narrow lanes, huge numbers of trucks and really bad drivers.  We both made it without problems, but it was stressful.

We arrived at the Pontchartrain Landing RV Resort, got registered and set up in our sites fairly quickly.  The weather is still hot and sticky, but not quite as bad as the last couple stops.  This is a very nice RV park which is in New Orleans proper, although on the north side of town close to Lake Pontchartrain.  Our sites are on the water of one of the canals or waterways that connect the lake on the north to the Mississippi River on the south end of town.  We are only about seven miles from downtown and the French Quarter area.  We decided to just stay in for the rest of today, so Ray BBQed some chicken and we had cocktails and dinner with the Babcocks before settling in for the night.

Friday, June 29th, it was time to see New Orleans and party.  We left the coach around 10:30 and the four of us drove down to the French Quarter.  The RV park has a shuttle service, but they have very limited trips and the timing didn’t fit with our scheduled bus tour and the need for the Babcocks to come back to the coach in the early afternoon to walk their dog.  We found a parking lot near Jackson Square, the south center part of the Quarter and our first stop was one of the carriage rides that start at the Square.  The four of us took a 30 minute tour around the French Quarter and some of the surrounding area, which was a lot of fun, although with the canopy over the top of the carriage the views were not the best.

After the carriage ride we walked the four blocks to the center of the Quarter, the corner of Bourbon and Orleans streets.  Along the way we picked up one geocache because we needed to get a cache for the day to meet the needs of our days of the year challenge.  We spent an hour or so walking down Bourbon Street and checking out the sights and sounds.  It was still pretty early, so there wasn’t too much going on in the way of revelers or music.  We stopped for lunch at a place called The Embers, which was right on Bourbon Street.  The food was very good, although the service could have been a little better.  Our waitress kind of acted like we were interfering with her day somehow.  After lunch we walked back to the car and then drove back to the RV park so Ray could walk the dog.  It was a quick stop because we had to get back downtown to catch one of the Grey Line tour buses on which we had booked a tour.  We learned the hard way that mid afternoon traffic in and around downtown New Orleans, and especially the French Quarter, is REALLY bad.  At one point I didn’t think we were going to be able to get to the bus on time and would have to reschedule the trip.  However, we did get to the bus about five minutes late, but it was still there so we were able to get on the tour.

The tour was about two and a half hours and went all over the city.  The bus driver, who has lived in New Orleans for about 20 years and was very knowledgeable, gave us a running commentary on the neighborhoods.  The tour we were on included a tour of areas that were severely affected by Hurricane Katrina in 2005, including the infamous Lower Ninth Ward, where the most severe flooding was.  It was not a bleak as I had thought it would be, there was a lot of rebuilding that has gone on, but it was still pretty bad in some areas.  There were hundreds of abandoned homes, clearly showing the effects of fifteen feet of water, hundreds of vacant lots were homes have been demolished, but also a lot of new construction.  The driver pointed out some of the canals, levees and flood walls that failed and caused the flooding.  We also got to see Fats Domino’s home and recording studio, which was right in the middle of the Ninth Ward.

We stopped at one of the famous New Orleans city cemeteries with all the large, ornate above ground crypts and tombs.  He told us a lot about the history of the cemeteries, why they do above ground internment and how sometimes tombs are sold after all of a family dies off and no one is around to take care of the tomb anymore.  The original families remains are left in the tomb, but their family name is taken off the front and moved to the side of tomb.  The new “owners” name is put on the front and their family members are then interred in the tomb also.  He said there is quite a market in cemetery real estate.  We got to walk around the cemetery for a while.

He also took us through some of the newer neighborhoods on the north side of town where the upper middle class live.  They also had some flood damage from Katrina, but these areas rebuilt much quicker and it is hard to see any evidence of the storm seven years later.  The final part of the tour took us through the Uptown and Garden districts where the well to do built mansions in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.  There are some very nice homes in this area and a multitude of architectural styles.  The driver was very good about identifying the various styles.  These are the neighborhoods where the streetcars still run.  In the early 1900's there were 16 streetcar lines in New Orleans, now there is only one.  The driver told us that one of the lines ran from downtown to Desire Street and was the inspiration for A Streetcar Named Desire by Tennessee Williams, who was living in New Orleans at the time he wrote the play.

After the bus tour we walked back up to Bourbon Street and walked around for another hour or so.  Things were now kind of jumping as there were a lot more people, a lot drunker people, and a lot of pretty interesting street entertainers.  Late in the afternoon the police close off several of the main streets in the Quarter, including Bourbon, to vehicle traffic, so they become pedestrian malls.  Three of us picked up a Hurricane, a fruity rum drink that New Orleans is famous for, and sipped them while walking about.  You can drink on the street as long as it’s in a plastic container.  About 6:30 we stopped for dinner at another Bourbon Street restaurant called Pat O’Brien’s.  This place has been in business in the Quarter since 1933 and does a really good business.  Again, the food was excellent.  I had crawfish etoufee, Jackie and Suzie had shrimp, and Ray got a sampler platter of Creole food.  Jackie and Ray also shared a plate of alligator.  Yum!   After dinner we spent another hour enjoying the sights and sounds of Bourbon Street, before finally heading back to the coaches about 9:00.  We had a great day, very busy but very fun.

Saturday, June 30th, the four of us left the RV park about 11:30 for another day of fun in New Orleans.  We parked at the south end of the French Quarter, next to what used to be the Jackson Brewery and is now a shopping mall and hotel.  We stopped for lunch at a café very close to where we parked called the New Orleans Seafood Company.  Lunch was very good, I had a shrimp po boy and Jackie had an appetizer sampler with a couple of different Creole and Cajon dishes.  After lunch we walked around some of the shops along Peters Street, which is the last street south of the Quarter before the Mississippi River.  We also did one geocache because we had to have one for this date. 

The geocache was a virtual cache, meaning no actual container or log, one just has to find something, in this case a statue, and then email the cache owner with the answers to some questions posed in the cache description.  In this case the stature was of Jean-Baptiste Le Moyne de Bienville, an explorer with the French Mississippi Company who founded New Orleans in 1717.  The town was under French control until the Treaty of Paris in 1763 when it was ceded to the Spanish government.  Spain controlled the city until 1801 when Spain gave it back to the French, only to have them sell it to the United States in 1803 as part of the Louisiana Purchase.  This rich history with dissimilar cultures is why the city is so architecturally and culturally interesting.  By the way, the current population of New Orleans is about 340,000.  Prior to Hurricane Katrina in 2005 the population was over 450,000.  In 2006, the year after the storm it was estimated at 270,000.

At 2:00 we walked over to the river to take a two hour riverboat cruise on the Mississippi on the Stern Wheeler Natchez.  We learned that the current Natchez, a modern steel hulled boat built in 1975, is the ninth paddle wheeler to have that name.  They also told us that seven of the previous eight were lost to boiler explosions and the other to a fire.  Although the current boat has a steel hull and superstructure, it is still steam operated and actually driven by the paddle, not a propeller.  The trip was OK and probably worth the $20, but it only went about twenty miles downstream, then turned around went back.  There really wasn’t a whole lot of interesting stuff to look at, mostly old dilapidated docks and wharfs and a whole lot of barges parked along the banks.  We stayed inside the cabin, sipping drinks and watching the river roll by.

After our little boat ride we drove back to the RV park so Ray could walk the dog and we spent an hour or so resting.  About 6:00 we drove to the New Orleans Elks Lodge, which was actually in the community of Metairie, on the north end of town about six miles west of the RV park.  This is one of the older Elks Lodges still in existence and is Lodge 30, charted in 1884.  Like many older lodges, they used to have a very large, ornate building right downtown, however declining membership and financial problems caused them to move to the suburbs some thirty years ago.  There is still a small street near downtown called Elk Place on which the old lodge building once stood.

When we arrived at the lodge we were shocked to find the parking lot full.  We thought there was some big lodge function going on, but it turned out there was a private party in their hall.  There were only about six people in the actual Lodge clubroom, however, they were very friendly and nice.  One of the officers gave us a tour of the facility, which includes a swimming pool for members and some RV hookups.  They gave us lodge pins and also bought our first round of drinks.  We ended up spending about an hour there talking to the folks.  The lodge only has about 285 members now.

After visiting the Elks we went to a nearby restaurant called Crazy Johnnies, which was recommended by a couple of the people in the lodge.  It was a small, simple steakhouse in a commercial area of town that is known for their prime rib.  Ray, Jackie and I all had the prime rib and it was some of the best I have had.  The food was reasonably priced, excellent quality and the service was good.  You might have a problem finding the place at 18th and Arnoult, but it will be worth the search.  After dinner we drove back home, getting in about 9:00 after another full day.

Sunday, July 1st, Happy Second Half of the Year!  Once again the four of us left the RV park about noon and drove to downtown New Orleans.  The primary target for today’s activities was to be shopping, especially at the French Market, which is New Orleans’ open air market that runs along about three blocks of the river to the south of the French Quarter.  It took us a while, being Sunday, to find a place to park, but we finally got an open spot not too far from Café Du Monde, which is on one end of the area we wanted to wander.

Café Du Monde is probably the best known coffee house in New Orleans and one of the oldest.  The place was first opened in 1862 and is best known for it’s chicory coffee and beignets, square donuts covered in powdered sugar.  Beignets and chicory coffee have become symbolic of New Orleans, although Café Du Monde didn’t invent either, a visit to the place has become one of the “must do’s” when coming to NOLA.  It has also been a location in a lot of movies filmed in New Orleans.  The restaurant has only patio seating, some under cover some not, with little French Sidewalk Café looking white wire tables and chairs.  The menu only has a couple varieties of coffee and beignets, so ordering is easy.  When we drove past the place on the way to parking there was a long line waiting for a table, but after we got parked and walked back we were able to go right in.

First off, the place is filthy.  We understand that there is seating for a couple hundred people, it is very tight spacing, and they serve food covered with powdered sugar, so a dirty floor is probably expected.  However, every empty table was still covered with dirty dishes.  They don’t seem to have a bussing staff so the wait staff has to clean tables too and their priority is serving, not cleaning.  We cleaned off our own table by moving all the stuff to an adjacent empty table.  We all had Café Au Lait, half coffee, half milk, and beignets.  You get three beignets in an order so we each got 1.5 sugar donuts and a cup of coffee.  After ten minutes we were done and moving on down the street having done the Café Du Monde thing.

Basically, the next four hours were shopping.  Some in stores on the street, some in the open market place.  We bought a couple things, Jackie got a hat and a shirt, but mostly we just walked, browsed and people watched.  People watching is a great activity in New Orleans.  We did stop for lunch at a place called the Market Café.  The food was OK, the Hurricanes, a rum drink were good, and the service was terrible.  Jackie didn’t get her food, a simple appetizer dish, until 20 minutes after everyone else was served.  I had my first muffuletta, which is a kind of New Orleans version of an Italian sub sandwich.  It is ham, salami and cheese, but it is served on a big, round bun and the dressing is an olive mix.  Sounds a little odd, but it was very good. 

At one point during our shopping tour the skies opened up and we had about a half hour of thunder, lightening and a hard rain.  It cooled things off for a while, but when the sun came out in full an hour later, it was really hot and humid.  About 5:00 we decided we had enough walking and shopping and we went back to the car and back to the RV park.  By the time we got home everyone had decided we didn’t even want to go out again, so we just stayed in the rest of the night.

Monday, July 2nd, we left the coach after lunch with the Babcocks to go out and do some chores.  Our first stop was Supercuts so Jackie could get a haircut.  We then moved on to a Jo Ann’s Fabrics so the girls could get some hobby supplies.  Both Jackie and Suzie like to “bling” up shirts and hats and the like and they needed some stuff.  We also wanted to get some flannel-like fabric to make covers for our driver and passenger seats in the coach.  They are leather, or something like leather, and get really sticky in hot, humid weather.  Suzie made some for their coach and is going to show Jackie how to make some for ours.

After Jo Ann’s we did a trip to the local Sam’s Club.  We wanted to get a few more bottles of vodka since Louisiana seems to have liquor laws similar to the states in the west, meaning that spirits can be sold in most any store, including grocery stores and places like Sam’s Club.  This almost always means lower prices because of the increased competition.  In another week we move into Mississippi and Tennessee for a month or so and I don’t think they are so liberal.  After Sam’s we headed back to the RV park for a rest.

About 6:00 we left again and the four of us went to a local restaurant called Drago’s.  It was only about six miles from the RV park and was not in downtown or the French Quarter.  A friend of ours from Indio, Joe Daily, had noticed on Facebook that we were in New Orleans and he posted that we should not miss Drago’s.  We noticed that the place had great reviews online so we decided to try it.  It was at the same intersection as Crazy Johnnies, the restaurant we went to on Saturday, right across the street, so we had no trouble finding it.

We were seated right away and the food was fabulous, probably the best we have had in New Orleans.  Thank you Joe Daily!  We ordered the charbroiled oysters for an appetizer because most of the online reviews raved about them.  I don’t eat oysters, but Jackie, Ray and Suzie loved them.  I also ordered another seafood fondu dish, shrimp, mushrooms, and cheese with bread to dip, and it was delicious also.  I ended up ordering the catch of the day, which was a blackened Redfish and it was cooked to perfection.  It was also a good portion, unlike what you get at some restaurants on the special menu.  Everyone else had whole lobsters and everyone loved them.  After dinner we went back to the RV park and relaxed the rest of the evening.

Tuesday, July 3rd, we packed up and left the RV park in New Orleans about 10:00 and headed to our next destination, which was only about 60 miles north on the other side of Lake Pontchartrain.  We arrived in Abita Springs, Louisiana, at the Abita Springs RV Resort about 11:30.  Ray and Suzie were right behind us.  This park is a private, membership park which used to belong to the Western Horizons group but was sold several years ago to Ocean Canyons, another private membership group.  They still retained an affiliation with Western Horizons however, which allows us to use it as if was a WHR park.  This makes it very inexpensive to stay here. 

The bad news was that since it was a holiday week/weekend, July 4th is tomorrow, the place was very full and they understandably gave their own members priority over the spots.  They didn’t have any 50 amp or sewer sites available.  The desk clerk said that some might come available by Saturday, so we only committed to four days when we checked in.  We were originally going to stay here for seven days.  We left it open that we might stay the other three days if something better opened up in the park later in the week.

We were most concerned about the 30 amp service since it was so hot.  We can only run one of the two roof air conditioners on 30 amps and have to watch other uses, like the water heater and microwave, very closely too.  None the less, we did get some nice sites with partial shade overlooking the large lake they have on the property.  It is a very pretty park and there are dozens of ducks and geese walking around all over the park.  We were able to get settled into our spot quickly and I even got our 4th of July decorations out and up on the front of the coach.  We didn’t go anywhere for the rest of the day, just stayed around the coach and relaxed.  We had cocktails with the Babcocks and then went back to our coach for dinner and spent the rest of the night watching TV.

Wednesday, July 4th, Happy Birthday America!  Around noon we walked over to the park’s recreation area where they were having free lunch for people staying at the park.  We each got a cheeseburger and a hot dog, along with some chips and watermelon, all for free.  We ate inside since it was pretty hot and humid out on the patio by the pool.  After lunch the four of us got into our car and just took a site-seeing drive around the general area.  We ended up driving almost 100 miles through a number of the small towns in this part of Louisiana, which they call the North Shore area.  One of the larger towns was named Bogalusa and it was really odd because later on in the evening we were watching TV and learned that today was also Bogalusa’s 98th birthday and that they had parades and all kinds of things going on.  We hadn’t seen any of that.  One thing we did see when we drove through town was a town cop standing in the middle of the road, stopping traffic.  I stopped, rolled down the window and he looked in, said, “OK, you’ve got your seatbelts on, go ahead.”  It was just a safety check for seat belt use.  He had his ticket book in his hand, so no doubt I would have gotten a ticket had we not been buckled in.

We also went through some very heavy thunderstorms while we were touring.  None of them lasted more than a few minutes, but there were a couple times when the rain was very heavy.  At least it knocked some of the dirt off the car.  When we finally got back to Covington, the larger town right next door to Abita Springs, we made a stop at the Best Buy store so the Babcocks could look for a GPS for their geocaching.  They are really hooked now and want a GPS receiver of their very own.  After that we went back to the RV park.  We got together for cocktails at 5:00 and then Ray brought over some big tamales they had in their freezer and we had some very good tamales for dinner, along with chips and salsa.  After dinner they left and we spent the rest of the evening with the TV.

Thursday, July 5th, the four of us headed out about 10:00 for some geocaching in the Abita Springs area.  The caches were kind of far flung, and some were hard to find, so we only ended up with seven new finds, and two DNFs, after a couple of hours of searching.  We then stopped at a local Waffle House for lunch before heading into Covington to do some shopping.  Our first stop was a large sporting goods store called Academy Sports.  The Babcocks were able to find a nice Garmin handheld GPS there that they liked and that was ready for paperless geocaching.  After they bought the GPS we made several other stops, including a Hobby Lobby, a Kohls and finally the local Walmart.  We finally made it home by 5:00, had a quick cocktail and then the four of us left again for dinner at a local café.

We had been told about the Camellia Café when we checked into the RV park on Tuesday.  It seems that the café has a special every Thursday night from 4 to 9 where every entree is 55% off for anyone over 55.  We had made reservations for 6:00 tonight to take advantage of the deal.  The café turned out to be a very nice little place with great service, a wonderful menu and excellent food.  Jackie had an eggplant dish, I had a full rack of ribs, Ray had a seafood platter and Suzie had chicken.  Suzie said the chicken was a little overcooked and dry, but everyone else thought their food was outstanding.  Just because the entrees were more than half price didn’t mean they cut back on the amounts of food.  We all ended up taking home leftovers.  I ate half of my rack of ribs and took the other half home for lunch.  Ray took more home than he ate, and he ate a lot of seafood.  Our bill, even with drinks, was $45 for Jackie and I.  Before the discount it was over $60.  Quite a bargain!  After dinner we dropped the Babcocks off at their coach and went back to ours for the rest of the night.

Friday, July 6th, we decided we needed a “down” day so we made no plans for today.  I caught up on some paperwork, relaxed and had my leftover ribs for lunch.  After lunch Jackie and I took some of our laundry to the facility here at the park and did a couple of loads.  Around 1:30 or so a series of thunderstorms started to roll through our area and there were several times when the rain was coming down as hard as I have ever seen.  The weather report said that in our area it was at the rate of two to three inches per hour.  Fortunately, we are at the edge of a large lake, so we didn’t have any flooding - all the water ran into the lake, which had plenty of leeway.  Also Fortunately, there was no wind or hail, only lots of rain, thunder and lightening.  One lightening bolt actually hit in the park, a few hundreds feet behind us.  Oddly, we never lost power, even after the lightening strike, which Ray said he heard had hit a trailer in the park.  We were really pleased that the coach remained watertight.  No apparent leaks anywhere.  If we can get through that kind of rain with no drips I think we are pretty safe to think we will stay dry in most anything.

About 5:00 Ray and Suzie came over for cocktails and later we had dinner together at our coach.  Jackie had the crock pot going all day with a bunch of country ribs cooked Asian style.  Served over rice, it was very good.  We chatted for a while after dinner and then the Babcocks left and we watched TV the rest of the night.  A very nice, relaxing day, except for the periods of rain.

Saturday, July 7th, we and the Babcocks left the park around 10:30 and drove into Abita Springs to visit the Abita Brewing Company.  Abita is a small micro brewery which started here in Abita Springs in 1986.  Their first year they brewed 1,500 barrels, in 2011 they were up to 130,000 barrels, which is still only a tiny fraction of the amount of beer brewed by the large, national labels.  They offer hourly tours of the brewery, which includes the tasting room, but they are not open for tours on Sunday or Monday, our last days here in Abita Springs.  We arrived in time for the 11:00 tour, which started with the attaching of an armband to indicate you are old enough to drink, and the presenting of the plastic tasting cup. 

We were ushered into the tasting room where we were able to spend about 20 minutes sampling some of the dozen or so varieties of beer they make.  We then got to see a ten minute video of the brewing process before they closed the taps and took us into the brew house.  The entire tour had two stops, the mash and fermentation room and the aging room.  About the only thing you see are a couple dozen large, stainless steel vats and lots of hoses and pipes.  Then you go back into the tasting room for another 15 minutes of beer drinking.  We all decided that the “tour” is only an excuse to legally let the company give away free beer to potential new customers.  Not that we complained, mind you.  They actually had some pretty good brews, although I generally don’t care for most designer beers because they are too bitter or hoppy tasting. 

After the beer tasting we stopped back at the Camille Café, where we had dinner the other night, for lunch.  We had noticed that they advertised a Saturday special where you could get a half pound burger and a 16 oz beer for $5 and we figured we would all get burgers.  The special was real, but none of us got the burgers.  They have too much other stuff on the menu.  Ray and I split a full muffuletta sandwich, the Louisiana version of an Italian sub.  I thought that when we leave here and go to Mississippi next week we may not see these again and they are very tasty.  As with dinner, the service was great, the prices reasonable and the food outstanding.

After lunch we drove back into nearby Covington for some more shopping.  We had to back to Kohl’s so Suzie could return some stuff that didn’t fit, and then we stopped at Target also.  After shopping we went back to the RV park for a quick stop to let Ray walk the dog, then we got back into the car and drove to Slidell, Louisiana, a fairly large town about 20 miles east of Abita Springs.  We were going to Slidell because it was the only place close by, besides New Orleans, with an Elks Lodge and the lodge is only open on the weekends.

We got to the Slidell Elks about 5:00 and found about a half dozen people in the bar.  There were a lot of people out back in the picnic area, but it was a private party using the lodge facilities.  We were greeted by both the Exalted Ruler and Lodge Secretary, and the Secretary took us on a tour of the lodge.  They have a large building on a huge piece of land.  They are a small lodge, less than 300 members, which is why they are not open more often.  We had a cocktail and got a lodge pin for our banner before leaving and heading back towards Abita Springs.

On the way back to the RV park I took the smaller, back roads route rather than the freeway and we were able to get three geocache finds on the way home.  We hadn’t expected to cache today, but the caches were on the way and the weather was really nice today, so why not?  The weather forecast was the same as yesterday, 30% chance of thunderstorms, but today they weren’t around where we were.  We got back to the coach close to 7:00 and we just went to our own coaches and relaxed the rest of the night.

Sunday, July 8th, although the weather was nice yesterday, about sundown it turned nasty again.  We had thunderstorms rolling through the area about every three hours all night long.  We kept being awakened by rolling thunder and the flashes of lightening.  Smokey spent a good part of the night lying between us in the bed.  When we woke up the sky was very overcast and the weather said more storms were in the offering. 

We decided that this would be a good day of rest, so we told the Babcocks we were just going to stay in for the day and relax.  They agreed that was a good idea and did so also.  I did do a couple small maintenance chores in between rain showers, but mostly I just relaxed and played games.  The good side of the overcast sky all day is that the temperatures were much lower, only in the 80's, although it was still humid as hell. 

Monday, July 9th, our last full day in Louisiana.  We needed to take a drive back to Slidell, the larger town to the east of Abita Springs, because we needed to visit a Triple A office to pick up some maps and tour books for the next few states on our travel itinerary.  We left the coach after lunch and took the drive to Slidell.  Ray was today’s driver, so I got to check out the scenery some while we traveled.  We found the Triple A office and next door was a pawn shop.  Ray and I went into the Triple A to get the maps and books and the girls went into the pawn shop.  Jackie  happened to find a big digital picture frame for only $15.  The smaller one we had bought at a pawn shop a couple years ago for $10 finally quit working after two years of continuous use.  We didn’t have anything else to do in Slidell, so we got back on the freeway and drove back to Covington, just the other side Abita Springs, and back to the Academy Sports store where Ray and Suzie had bought their GPS.  Our weather alert radio seems to have quit after seven years and I remembered seeing the radios at the Academy Sports store when we were there.  I went in, bought and bought the radio while the girls were next door shopping at Hobby Lobby.

After our shopping was done we took a drive to yet another nearby city, Mandeville.  Mandeville is right on the north shore of Lake Pontchartrain and is the northern terminus of the Pontchartrain Causeway, the highway that runs across the middle of the lake from New Orleans to Mandeville.  The causeway, which is actually two separate, parallel two lane bridges, is just under 24 miles long and is the longest continuous bridge over water in the world.  It is a toll road, but is used extensively by people who live in the North shore area, the north side of the lake, but work in New Orleans on the south shore.  When there are strong storms over the lake in the area of the causeway it is closed to traffic until the storms clear.

We drove around Mandeville for a while, admiring some of the very nice homes that have been built along the lakeshore.  We then decided to have dinner at a local BBQ place called Voodoo BBQ and Grill.  It was the type of place where you ordered at the counter, but then they brought the food to your table.  I had a plate with both pulled pork and beef brisket and it was wonderful.  The food was reasonably priced and very good.  The only complaint was from Ray and Jackie, who had the jerked chicken on their combos and they both said it was a little dry.  They had several choices of sauce and we tried all of them.  It was a very nice dinner experience and Ray had been wanting to try Louisiana BBQ, so now he got the chance.  After dinner we drove home and just relaxed the rest of the night.

Tuesday, July 10th, time to leave Louisiana and get on to our next stop, Natchez, Mississippi, about 155 mile northwest of Abita Springs.  Of course, about the time we pulled out of the park to dump our tanks the rain started.  We had full tanks because we didn’t have sewer hookups at our sites here in Abita Springs.  We got the tanks dumped and got soaked in the process by the rain, but by 10:30 we were on the road, in the rain, headed for Mississippi. 

Unfortunately, we didn’t get far before trouble hit us, or more correctly we hit trouble.  About three miles from the RV park, just coming into Abita Springs we went under one of the many Live Oak trees that are in this part of the country, and hit a low hanging limb with the satellite dome on the top front of the coach.  The dome itself is pretty flimsy plastic and it shattered.  There were big holes and cracks in the entire dome.  I pulled off the road when I could and went up on the roof to make sure there was no structural damage to the coach.  It was kind of scary on the wet roof, 12 feet off the ground, in the rain, but I needed to know if anything really serious happened.  It did not appear that the limb itself hit any of the mechanical parts of the satellite dish inside the dome and there did not appear to be any other damage to the motorhome.  My big worry know was that the water would get inside the dome and damage the electronics.  I had no way to cover it however, so we just had to take the chance and continue on. 

We stopped after about 20 miles to top off the fuel tanks on the coach and when we got ready to leave our steps would not retract.  They are electric and automatic, supposed to retract as soon as the ignition switch is on and the door is closed.  They would not come in at all and were sticking out about a foot from the side of the coach.  We have had this problem before when traveling in the rain, but in the past opening and closing the door a few times would get them to finally retract.  Something in the mechanism was getting wet and causing the system not to work.  Once the steps dry out they work fine.  I decided to just go on and try to make sure I stayed clear an extra little distance on the passenger side when I approached something on the road like a bridge or railing.

However, after about 50 miles we came to a construction area and I was really concerned that the lanes would be so narrow that I might bump the step into something and really damage it.  I pulled over to the side of the road and, in the rain of course, spent 15 minutes on the wet ground under the front of the coach disconnecting the actuator from the steps and wiring them up with a piece of wire to keep them retracted.  Once that was done we continued on - in the rain.

We finally got Natchez about 2:30 and found our reserved spots in the Natchez State Park campground.  This park is part of the Mississippi State Park system and is located about 6 miles north of the City of Natchez.  Both we and the Babcocks were able to get into our spots easily and get the utilities hooked up - in the rain - and the basic setup done on the coach so we could relax.  Fortunately, we have always carried a spare satellite dish and tripod that we can set up outside when we are somewhere with a tree or something blocking the roof dome antenna.  This time the roof dome was broke, but we had our dish and I got the TVs working.

After an hour or so the rain stopped so I was able to go up on the roof and try to give the antenna up there some first aid.  I took the busted plastic dome off and checked out the actual antenna, which again did not look like it had been struck by the limb.  There was a lot of water in the bottom of the dome container, but all of the electronics and motors are elevated about an inch and did not appear to be soaked.  I tried to dry out the inside of the dome as best I could with some towels and then covered the whole thing up with an oilskin table cloth to try and keep any additional water from getting into the dome.  I hope we have a sunny day soon so I can dry the works out good and then turn it on to see if it still works.  It will be a lot less expensive to just replace the plastic cover than it will be to replace the entire antenna.  Fingers, toes and eyes crossed for luck!

Once I got all this done I was whipped and on my third dry shirt of the day.  We had cocktails with the Babcocks, but dinner on our own in the coach and we just relaxed, calmed down and watched TV the rest of the night.

Our arrival here in Natchez, Mississippi makes a good stopping point for this chapter.  Here in Natchez we will begin our journey along the 444 mile Natchez Trace National Parkway, which runs from Natchez to Nashville, Tennessee.  We will publish again in a couple weeks.  Until the next time, don’t let the little things in life get you down.  Today was a rough day, but in the long run, just minor bumps in the road of life.  Keep smiling!  See ya later.