Sunday, September 6, 2015

Hanging Out in the Mid-South

Hi there, welcome back. Our last chapter concluded on Wednesday, August 19th, when we arrived in Wapakoneta, Ohio. We are staying at the Wapakoneta KOA which is just a mile or so from the Neil Armstrong Air and Space Museum. It seems that this is Armstrong's home town.

Thursday, August 20th, we left the coach after lunch and went out to do some geocaching and exploration of Wapakoneta. We finally had a very nice, relatively cool day, only in the 70's and clear skies. We had a great afternoon of caching, getting a dozen new finds and no DNFs. We also stopped at the Neil Armstrong Museum. We went into the gift shop, but not the museum itself. We also walked around the outdoor exhibits, which included mockups of both Apollo and Gemini spacecraft. We also spent some time in the very pretty downtown and walked around a couple of antique stores before heading back to the coach for cocktails and dinner. We spent the rest of the evening relaxing with the TV.

Friday, August 21st, another travel day. We left Wapakoneta about 10:30 and headed south towards Walton, Kentucky, about 133 miles away. On the way we passed through both Dayton and Cincinnati, and the big cities, along with the constant road construction made for a very stressful trip. We got settled into the Oak Creek Campground outside Walton about 1:30 or so. We are here to visit another of my niece's, Stephanie, who lives in nearby Florence, Kentucky with her family. She is the oldest daughter of my brother David, who lives in Virginia Beach, Virginia. We haven't seen Stephanie since my mother died in 2009.

After we got settled in we drove back north to the Kentucky and Ohio border town of Newport, Kentucky, so we could find a specific type of geocache called an Earth Cache. An Earth Cache is usually a virtual type cache, that is, no container. You have to go to a site that is remarkable in some geological or other scientific sense and answer some questions posed by the cache owner. We wanted to get an Earth Cache as part of an ongoing challenge underway with Geocaching.com. We have to find five different types of caches prior to September 2nd in order to achieve the challenge. The cache we went to was placed at the confluence of the Licking and Ohio rivers. The Ohio serves as the border between Kentucky and Ohio and downtown Cincinnati is on the northern side. Newport, Kentucky is on the south. The Licking River flows north out of Kentucky into the Ohio. We visited the cache coordinates and took the steps necessary to log the cache, so now we only have one more cache type to get to meet the challenge. While we were at the Earth Cache we also got a regular cache near the same location, netting us two finds for the day. After finding the caches we headed back to the campground and had cocktails and dinner.

Saturday, August 22nd, we left the coach after lunch and drove up to Florence, Kentucky, about ten miles north of the campground, to visit with my niece Stephanie Hopkins. Stephanie and her husband have lived in the Cincinnati area for a number of years. We arrived at their place a little after 1:00 and spent the rest of the afternoon visiting with the family in their condo. They just bought this condo a few months back and it is a nice place in a very nice neighborhood. Their daughter Makayla is 12 and she is very sweet and entertaining. She spent all afternoon chatting and performing and just being a great kid.

We have not seen Stephanie or Makayla since 2009, and have never met her husband Jeremiah. He works for a law firm in downtown Cincinnati, which is only about 12 miles or so to the north of where they live. We had a wonderful visit and Stephanie served a great dinner of turkey and mashed potatoes and Makayla made some corn muffins that were outstanding. We left about 7:30 or so and headed back south to the campground where we relaxed the rest of the evening.

Sunday, August 23rd, we spent most of the day at home doing chores and relaxing. We did go out briefly after lunch to the grocery store and also got a couple of caches that were in the store parking lot area. About 5:30 Stephanie, Jeremiah and Makayla all came over for dinner. Jackie made a chili relleno casserole with rice and beans and everyone enjoyed the dinner. We sat and talked after dinner for a while. They all left to go home about 8:30. It was really great seeing family on this stop.

Monday, August 24th, was supposed to be a travel day, but on Saturday we decided to extend our stay here for one day so we would have some time to go out and explore the area. We left the coach about 11:00 and went out first for a quick lunch at the White Castle hamburger place. Neither of us had ever had this staple of Midwest fast food, so we had to give it a try. For those not familiar, White Castle, which started in Chicago in 1921, makes sliders, little mini burgers, rather than the full size burgers you can get at any other fast food place. The standard order is four sliders, which is what I had. They had only cheese and grilled onions on the bun. The meat was a little, tiny slice of hamburger. I thought they were OK, but they were a little greasy. I suspect that is part of what makes them popular. Jackie had the double burgers, where she got two doubles. Their onion bits were good as were the fries. I don't think I would go out of my way to go again.

After our White Castle experience we drove across the river to Cincinnati. We did a few geocaches and then spent some time driving around the big downtown area. It was a typical big city, but some of the buildings downtown were very nice. There was a mix of what appeared to be very old office and industrial buildings with new office buildings. Both the baseball and football stadiums were right downtown on the riverfront. After looking around downtown for a while we drove to the eastern suburbs to visit the headquarters of the Family Motor Coach Association, or FMCA. Friends and regular readers will know that we are very active with FMCA at the Chapter level, belonging to a number of chapters and holding office in a couple. FMCA has it's headquarters in Cincinnati so we drove out to see their offices. They have a very nice building in an upscale semi-rural area of town. One of the women who works there took us on a tour of the building and we got to see and say hi to a couple of people we have met at rallies who are employees.

We then drove about five miles to the other FMCA building which is now used for storage. Until recently FMCA had their own mail forwarding service for members and it was housed in this second building. They have since outsourced the mail forwarding and now use the second building for storage. This building also has a large RV park which is available to members. Any member can stay for two nights free, if space is available, and then up to five more nights for only $20 a night. They are nice, paved full hookup sites.

After we visited the FMCA buildings we drove back across the river and did a few more geocaches on the Kentucky side of the river. We ended up with eight new finds for the day, with no DNFs. We then drove to the Florence, Kentucky Elks Lodge. This is an old lodge, number 314, with a very unusual setup. They operate a regular public bar upstairs and the downstairs is the Elks Lodge, also with a bar for members only. In all our visits with Elks lodges we have never seen this type of setup before. We had a couple of drinks and visited with a number of members, all of whom were very friendly. Although the bar didn't have any lodge pins, the Secretary came in while we there and was able to get us one from the office. About 6:00 we left the lodge and drove back to the campground, stopping at the KFC along the way to pick up dinner. We spent the rest of the evening in the coach.

Tuesday, August 25th, another travel day. We left the campground about 10:00 and started a 166 mile trip south and west to Cave City, Kentucky. Along the trip we passed through Louisville, Kentucky, but we didn't stop since we were there just a few years ago on our last trip to this part of the country. We arrived at the Singing Hills RV Park in Cave City about 1:00 local time, having gained an hour back by passing back into the Central Time Zone. Cave City is so named because it is just outside the entrance to Mammoth Cave National Park. We are going to be here for two nights and will visit the park tomorrow. After we got set up we relaxed for the rest of the day.

Wednesday, August 26th, we left the coach after lunch to do some exploring and geocaching. Our first stop was the visitor's center for the Mammoth Cave National Park, which is only a few miles from the campground. We spent a half hour or so walking around the visitor's center, looking at the exhibits and photos. We elected not to do any of the cave tours. We have been in Carlsbad Caverns and we didn't feel like doing all the walking required for most of the tours. We drove around the park and did a couple of virtual geocaches. The Park Service does not allow actual container caches to be hidden in a National Park, but people did “place” virtuals back at the time they were allowed by Groundspeak, the caching headquarters.

We also drove through Park City, Cave City and Horse Cave. The town of Horse Cave was very interesting. Horse Cave is one of many of the caverns in this part of Kentucky that are not part of the National Park. Horse Cave is a very large limestone sinkhole with a huge cave entrance, reputed to be the largest in the country. The cave is right in the middle of town, just off main street. The town was founded in the mid-1800's as a railroad stop, however the town turned into a huge tourist attraction because of the cave and the now easy access by train. The town only has about 2,300 people now, but the two main streets in town still have the 19th century look. We ended up with ten new finds for the day and no DNFs. After our explorations we went back to the coach for dinner and watched TV the rest of the evening.

Thursday, August 27th, was another travel day. We left Cave City around 10:00 and drove just under 200 miles to the Parker's Crossroads RV park, near Yuma, Tennessee. It was a very nice park, but we are only here overnight. We didn't even unhook the car. Once we got settled in we rested, trying to get over the colds we have developed.

Friday, August 28th, we were packed up and on the road by 10:00. We headed southwest on a 145 mile trip to the Hernando Point Corps of Engineers campground, located on the shore of Lake Arkabutla. I think the Arkabutla is an old Indian word for “middle of nowhere” because it's about 12 miles of two lane, country road through the woods to get to the campground. We have a very nice site just across the road from the lake with a killer view out the front. We will be here for five days. The lake was created when Arkabutla Dam was completed in 1943, blocking the flow of the Coldwater River. To create the lake the Corps of Engineers had to relocated the town of Coldwater and it's 700 residents several miles to the south of the dam site.

After we got settled in we cooled down from the 90 plus temperature before getting in the car and driving to the town of Horn Lake, Mississippi, just south of the Tennessee border. We went up there to attend a geocaching event which we had spotted on the website. We needed to attend an event prior to September 2nd in order to complete our “Geocaching Road Trip” challenge. It was the last of five types of caches we needed to find. It was a small event, with only about six or seven cachers, but they were very friendly and we had a great time visiting with them. The event went about 45 minutes and then we had dinner in the BBQ restaurant where the event had been held.

It was Tom's Original BBQ and we discovered after we went in that it was a Diner's, Drive-in's and Dives location. We saw the poster of Guy Fieri in the entryway and when we asked the owner, who was working the counter, he said that Guy had been here twice. They had a very extensive menu and I ended up with the beef brisket sandwich and Jackie had the baby back ribs. It was excellent food, some of the best brisket I have ever had. The place was full of local cops when we went in and when I had to show the owner my ID for my credit card he saw my badge and gave the police discount. It's been a long time since I had one of those! They have a location in Horn Lake and another in Memphis, so if you are in the area and want outstanding BBQ, look up Tom's Original BBQ. After dinner we drove back to the campground and watched TV for the rest of the night.

Saturday, August 29th, we had a stay at home day. I got a number of small chores done around the coach, little things that I had been putting off because we were busy. Jackie got several things done as well and it was nice to have a quiet day to continue to recover from our colds.

Sunday we left the coach after lunch and headed out to do some geocaching and exploring. We first cached in the small town of Hernando, the first town north of the campground. Hernando was founded in 1839 and named after Hernando De Soto, so it is appropriate that it is also the county seat of DeSoto County Mississippi. The town has a current population of just over 14,000. We did a half dozen caches in Hernando before moving a little further north to Horn Lake, the town just south of the border where we went for the caching event the evening we arrived.

Horn Lake has a population of just over 26,000 and was also founded in the early 1800's. It began to grow and prosper in the mid-twentieth century as a suburb of Memphis and light industrial and manufacturing. Elvis Presley owned a ranch here in the late 60's and it was the place where he and Priscilla went for their honeymoon. We did some more caching here in Horn Lake, closing the afternoon with eleven new finds and no DNFs. After caching we drove back down to Hernando and visited the Walmart, then headed back to the campground, where we stayed in the rest of the evening.

Monday, August 31st, we left the coach around 11:00 and headed north to do some sightseeing and caching in Memphis, Tennessee. Memphis is just across the state line, about 25 miles or so north of Hernando. Memphis was founded in 1819 on one of the high bluffs overlooking the Mississippi River. The city was an important port and center of commerce for the mid-south. The city's elevation made it virtually flood-free and the lower surrounding areas had great agricultural potential. Tennessee seceded from the Union in 1861, but by June 1862 Union forces had captured and occupied Tennessee, including Memphis, and it remained under Union control the rest of the war. Because this happened early in the war the city was spared the damage suffered by other southern cities. The current population of Memphis is over 650,000, with more than 1.3 million in the metro area. It is the largest city in Tennessee, on the Mississippi River, and in the mid-south.

Our first stop after we crossed back into Tennessee was the UPS Service Center near the airport to pick up our mail. We didn't get much, but it has been a couple weeks and we try not to let it go too much beyond two or three weeks. The next thing we did was go to a neighborhood a mile or so east of downtown where I had lived at one time. In July 1966 I was in the Marine Corps and had just gotten out of boot camp, gone back to Phoenix and married my girlfriend. My first duty station was Millington Naval Air Station, which was located northeast of Memphis. I was sent there because at that time all of the Navy and Marine Corps Aviation Technical Schools were located on the base. After about three months my wife at the time came out and joined me. We rented an apartment in a large house in Memphis. We only lived there until I finished my technical schooling and was transferred to Hawaii in May 1967.

When we were last here in Memphis in 2006 I had tried to find the house where my ex-wife and I used to live so I could show it to Jackie. I remembered the street it was on, Harbert, and that the address was 1300 something, but we drove up and down Harbert street a number of times and nothing clicked, so we were unable to locate it. We did drive out to what had been Millington Naval Air Station. There is still a Naval facility there called the Mid-South Naval Support Activity, but the air base has been converted to a civilian airport and the south side of the base, where all the schools were located, has been deactivated completely. All of the schools were moved to Pensacola, Florida, back in the early 90's.

I decided that since we were in town I would take another look and this time I was able to locate the old house at 1353 Harbert. The front landscaping was completely changed and hid some of the features of the house that I remembered, but once I got close to the front, and then looked at the back, I knew it was the right place. Then things took a really interesting twist. A little background.

During the short period my ex and I lived there we were befriended by our next door neighbors. We were young, I was 19, she was 18, poor (only a Private in the Marine Corps) and alone. No friends, no relatives and no car. I took the bus back and forth to the base. Our neighbors, one of whom was a University of Memphis Art Professor, were very nice to us. We went to dinner at their place from time to time, and they would let us borrow one of their two Volkswagens on the weekends to go shopping, go to the park, or just go somewhere. I had no recollection of their names, only their kindness to a couple of young people on their own for the first time.

After I determined I had the right house I took a shot and rang the doorbell of the house where the couple who became our friends had lived. A youngish guy, maybe late 30's, answered the door and I explained how I had lived next door in 66-67 and briefly explained my interest in his house. As it turns out, the guy who answered the door bought the house six years ago from the wife of the college professor, who had died some years ago. And, he works at the same company with the son of the couple. I learned that the sculptor's name was Harris Sorrelle, and once he said that I remembered it. I was flabbergasted. I gave the guy a card and told him to let his friend know the story and tell him to call me if he wanted to learn more.  Harris Sorrelle has one of his sculptures in a riverside park in Memphis.  I have included a photo of the piece.

After my little foray into the past we headed over to get something to eat. Our friend Mike Neighbours had recommended Gus's Fried Chicken when he heard we were going to be in Memphis. It was rated very high on Yelp, so we gave it a shot. We ate at the downtown location, which was one of many. The place was packed, even though we got there close to 1:00, and there were a lot of cops. That is usually a good sign. They only serve fried chicken and the usual sides, so we both had the half chicken. I thought the chicken was excellent, not too greasy and with just a bit of a kick in the spices. Jackie thought is was a touch too hot for her taste. We also had the fried green tomatoes appetizer and they were outstanding. The fries and mac and cheese sides were also very good. I could recommend the place to anyone who likes fried chicken.

We then spent a couple of hours driving around downtown and some of the older neighborhoods, doing some sightseeing and geocaching. We only got six new finds, and one DNF, but we did a lot of looking around. Memphis, especially the older, wealthier sections, is very pretty. After our explorations we headed back south and got back to the coach in time for cocktails.

Tuesday, September 1st. It was seventeen years ago today that I left Phoenix and moved to Indio to start a new life with my wonderful wife Jackie. We also have a wedding anniversary on February 8th, but September 1st will always mark a wonderful day. We decided we needed a down day, so we just stayed in the coach for the day and continued to try and get over our colds.

Wednesday, September 2nd, another travel day. We pulled out of the Corps of Engineers park at 10:30 and started towards Little Rock, Arkansas, about 177 miles southwest. When we left Memphis we crossed the Mississippi River, putting us west of the Mississippi for the first time since the end of June. We made a fuel stop and arrived at the North Little Rock RV park right around 2:00. This is a city owned and operated park which is right on the banks of the Arkansas River. North of the river is North Little Rock and Little Rock's downtown is on the south side. We are right between the Interstate 30 bridge over the river and an old highway bridge which has been converted to a pedestrian crossing, leading from North Little Rock to the William Clinton Presidential Library, which is just across the river from our park. The park is nothing fancy, basically a parking lot with hookups, but it has full service, 50 amp parking at a Passport America rate of $12 a night. That is hard to beat anywhere.

We got set up and decided to stay in for the rest of the day since it really hot. Not too long after we got in a series of thunderstorms came through and we got some welcome rain. No big storms, just an hour or so of rain and noise. We had dinner and watched TV until bedtime. The view after dark was really nice as we had all of downtown Little Rock outside our front window. The pedestrian bridge is lit up it's entire length with colored lights that continually change. It is really pretty here.

Thursday, September 3rd, we headed out after lunch and did out laundry. After the laundry was done we found a Super Cuts and we both got haircuts. We then went to the grocery store and picked up some supplies. Although it was really hot and humid, we did stop and get one geocache, our first in the State of Arkansas. This also fills in our geocaching map for every state west of the Mississippi, including Hawaii and Alaska. Yea! We then headed back to the coach and put away the groceries.

As soon as we had all the supplies put away we drove the North Little Rock Elks Lodge, which was only a half mile from the RV park. This is Lodge 1004, chartered in 1905 as the Little Rock Lodge. In 1935 their lodge burned down, so they built a new one across the river in North Little Rock. It is a very large, pretty building, very art deco in design in keeping with it's age. There were only four or five members at the bar when we went in, but they were very friendly. One of them was a Lodge Trustee and he bought Jackie one of the Lodge's cookbooks, which looks like it has some very nice recipes in it. We stayed for about an hour and a half, had a couple drinks and a great time talking to the members. We then went home, had dinner and watched TV until bedtime.

Friday, September 4th, we had another travel day. We left Little Rock around 10:30, as usual, and started southwest to Texarkana, Texas, about 155 miles away. Texarkana is a large city, about 67,000 people, which is split right down the middle north to south, with Texarkana, Arkansas on the east and Texarkana, Texas on the west. Courtney lives on the Texas side, so we are staying on the Texas side.

We are headed to Texarkana to visit with my granddaughter Courtney and her family. Courtney is my oldest daughter Tye's middle child. She got married about a year ago and just recently had a baby boy they named Josiah, my fifth great-grandchild. We arrived at the Shady Pines RV Park, which is about five miles west of Texarkana around 2:00. I had to make some repairs to the coach power cord before we could get set up, so we weren't all set up until after 4:00. We called Courtney and told her that it was too late today and that we would see them tomorrow. After that we stayed in the coach and tried to get cool on a very hot and humid day. We did notice on the local news that the people in this area refer to it as “The Arklatex” because it lies at the junction of Arkansas, Louisiana and Texas.

Our arrival here to be with family marks a good place to close out this episode and get it published. This is also more or less the first stop on our travels back to the west from our summer in the central part of the country. Until the next time, remember that life is to be enjoyed, not watched. Get out and have some fun. See ya soon.